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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I actually made it for exhaust clearance so I could use midpipe sections made for Mustangs, strength as a chassis brace wasn’t a motivating factor but I did want the solid mounting at the chassis mounts
So when you say solid mount, it’s directly bolted to frame rail? Or through the single bolt at each side?

It doubles as a trans tunnel brace and helps firm of the drivetrain
Not to hate or anything I don’t know but how does it strengthen this area?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
It mounts exactly the same as the stock crossmember, just without bushings
Thanks for the picture, I’m gonna look into the cheapy washer solution.
Do you have any other tips and tricks for these cars? I heard somewhere the rear window is taking most of the load on the body back there.
 

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Lazarus has the v brave, rods tower braces, and the subframe connectors, along with the piece that goes between the LCA's.
It doesn't move much now, but it needs to be re-spotwelded all over, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Get a Cougar, rear window structure is stronger :D
Good one! In the movie “the happening” there’s a scene where a teal cougar pulls up in the scene and it totally peaked my interest! Aren’t they shorter than our cars?

Lazarus has the v brave, rods tower braces, and the subframe connectors, along with the piece that goes between the LCA's.
It doesn't move much now, but it needs to be re-spotwelded all over, lol.
Re-spot welded? How so and in what areas? You think Sean welding would be benificial?
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Same length, just different roofline and trunklid. I didn't know there was one in the happening, but its been ages since I saw it

There was a MN12 Thunderbird and Cougar in Grand Theft Auto San Andreas, oddly in that the trunk area was noticably shortened, I think it was called the Bravura and the Tbird Fortune
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
IF the transmission is bouncing enough for you to feel it - consider solid motor mounts.

It's a triangle; leave the transmission mount factory, and solid mount at the motor, it won't bounce around.

If there IS any bounce, it won't be the transmission ...

RwP
Thanks for the tip, do you think the same effect if I went solid mounting the trans instead?
I recently changed my exhaust hanger bushings which was causing even more bouncing.
i also have the poly frame side strut rod bushing and I know they are extremely hindering performance. The ride sucks because of it I think.
 

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Thanks for the tip, do you think the same effect if I went solid mounting the trans instead?
I recently changed my exhaust hanger bushings which was causing even more bouncing.
i also have the poly frame side strut rod bushing and I know they are extremely hindering performance. The ride sucks because of it I think.
No.

If there IS flex, solid mounting the tailshaft will vastly increase the chance of you going "It USED to be a 4 speed, now it's 4,000 parts!" by destroying the housing.

As has been pointed out before.

(It's like how rubber in the rear UCA doesn't affect wheel hop; if the bottom's twisting enough for it to affect it, you've got other problems!)

And ahem HOW does the exhaust hanger bushing cause the transmission to bounce? Think about it carefully ...

RwP
 
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
No.

If there IS flex, solid mounting the tailshaft will vastly increase the chance of you going "It USED to be a 4 speed, now it's 4,000 parts!" by destroying the housing.

As has been pointed out before.

(It's like how rubber in the rear UCA doesn't affect wheel hop; if the bottom's twisting enough for it to affect it, you've got other problems!)

And ahem HOW does the exhaust hanger bushing cause the transmission to bounce? Think about it carefully ...

RwP
Thanks, looks like I’m not going any further with this mount idea, for now muhahaha, the 6r80 doesn’t have a tail shaft housing :)

also I deidnt mean my exhaust was causing the trans bouncing, I meant the exhaust itself was bouncing around too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·

Hey guys I just found the mount for the trans on a 97 mustang gt with the auto trans. I’m more than certain we have the same trans. Why is it ford went with 1 single bolt on our cars and 2 bolts on the mustangs? Something to do with the independent rear?
I’m leaning towards ford should of done it that way with 2 bolts from the factory. You never really hear tailshafts breaking on auto mustang.
 

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Hey guys I just found the mount for the trans on a 97 mustang gt with the auto trans. I’m more than certain we have the same trans. Why is it ford went with 1 single bolt on our cars and 2 bolts on the mustangs? Something to do with the independent rear?
I’m leaning towards ford should of done it that way with 2 bolts from the factory. You never really hear tailshafts breaking on auto mustang.
Not with the rubber mounts, no.

With solid mounts, yes.

Or at least in groups that do transmissions specfically.

I'm still not sure what your end game is; for the rear end to bounce, the front of the motor also has to bounce. I'd fix that FIRST.

Or, you know, keep blathering about on something minor instead of fixing the REAL problem.

RwP
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Not with the rubber mounts, no.

With solid mounts, yes.

Or at least in groups that do transmissions specfically.

I'm still not sure what your end game is; for the rear end to bounce, the front of the motor also has to bounce. I'd fix that FIRST.

Or, you know, keep blathering about on something minor instead of fixing the REAL problem.

RwP
Blather I shall!!

I changed my motor mounts a couple months ago, didn’t use solid rubber tho. So I’m pretty sure that not it. And now that I changed this I noticed a lot of the bounce went away. I still have some but I’m going to attribute it to the cheapy poly frame side strut rod bushings. Still debating on biting the bullet and getting em off SCP or doing customs hiems.

It makes no difference how many bolts there are, it’s all triangulated and the load on the tailshaft is the same. If there is a valid reason for it it’s likely that the 2 bolt mounting is simply a carryover from the past.
I see huh, would of thought it was for some of the side to side movement a single bolt would have instead of 2.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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The motor mounts limit the side to side, that’s what I mean by triangulated. You don’t want the the trans mount resisting any movement except for up and down, which is aided by gravity on one end, anything beyond that puts the entire weight of the engine and transmission + torque on the tailshaft mounts, and the case is simply not engineered for those forces.

Did the “bouncing” start when you installed the strut rod bushings?(though that seems equally unlikely, since no thermoplastic MN12 I’ve been in is “bouncy”. What shocks and springs are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I’d say since I got the car, im running QA1’s up front and vogtland 1.6” with cobra bilsteins in the rear. I’d say it’s been bouncy since I got the car. I noticed more after I formed up the ride. I changed the pinion bushings on the diff and that made a world of a difference, then the engine mounts, the the rear diff mount (just put bolts through the stocker) and now this trans mount. Im kicking myself for not getting the solid motor mounts. I took it to an alignment shop after changing the strut rod bushings and I think those clowns didn’t tighten down those bolts hard enough.
 
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