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Discussion Starter #1
My daughter has the ability to test this car like no one else. While driving 25 miles home from college she said the car started "acting funny" - RPM's going wacky when she tried to pass or accelerate quickly, weird shifting. I was 3000 miles away out of town but it sounded like fluid issues, and sure enough, nothing showing on the stick when she checked. Puddle under the car of red fluid later confirmed a leak; seems to be coming from inside the radiator, and the lines leading to it are looking bad as well. So does this call for a new radiator with cooler, or can I just use an aux cooler instead? And should I replace the lines back to the tranny while at it, or am I asking for trouble by messing with them if they are still holding?
 

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Got to love being in the south, we don't have rust.

You could go with a stand alone cooler, just get a big one.

The radiator will probably go out soon anyway.

I think I would go with a new radiator and look for some good lines - new or used (best from southern states)
 

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It's really not that bad - Lines from Tranny run down Passenger side - With Tubing cutters remove section of Tubing Passenger side front - Flush lines & fit hose Barb adapters to Lines for hoses to new Cooler under Bumper Passenger Side - Just orphan out the remaining Lines that cross under Rad & terminate Driver side Rad - It's prudent to NOT mess with trying to remove Lines from Tranny, between the bi-metalic corrosion, the PLASTIC Rad end & the Aluminum Rad Core you are just asking for BIG trouble ~!

You do NOT want to end up like this dude:

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=131849

Up North you'll need some kinda Fluid Temp Sensing Valve - I went with a brand new - Ford P/N F4TH - 7A095 that I got for $25 which is the optional Trans Cooler on the old Windstars but the Ford P/N has a nice bracket well suited to under Bumper installs on Mk's & Tbirds although it was probably in front of Rad stock - It's just a $60 B&M 70273 with a bracket - Compression fittings on existing lines cut at Passenger side & Hose Barb adapters to a short run of $3 a foot dude Hi Press line - & Yes this is one of the things you can shop to death on EBAY once you know what size & thickness your desired location will handle - For more "intense applications" there were some DUDE used stainless & copper jobs on there & even some new Fan cooled jobs around $100.
 

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I prefer to avoid the temperature valves whenever possible. I suggest mounting a hayden 679 in front of the ac condenser and runnign as much steel line as possible. If you ever experience a too cold issue that lockup will not work put a piece of cardboard over it.
Alan
 

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I prefer to avoid the temperature valves whenever possible. I suggest mounting a hayden 679 in front of the ac condenser and runnign as much steel line as possible. If you ever experience a too cold issue that lockup will not work put a piece of cardboard over it.
Alan
I've heard that rubber line (especially the wrong kind) can cause pressure fluctuations, is this something that can be cured by using stainless steel braid and AN fittings or should I just pony up the cash to a custom shop to make new stainless hard line all the way to an aftermarket cooler?
 

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Stainless is virtually impossible. I am using the ezibend alloy, in your environment coated steel should work just fine.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, looking at it the lines seem fine - it looks like the leak is out of the bottom of the radiator, so I've ordered a new one.
 

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No offense but that is poor advice that could very well cost you a transmission.
Alan
Gotta agree. It will also leave you stranded when you pump all the fluid out onto the road. It did me. I fixed it with a mounted compression fitting and barb.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so in trying to bend new lines (they were corroded after all) i semi-kinked one of them. How much of a kink is too much? I'm thinking that I've still got enough flow capacity but definitely more restricted than full round line. Advice?
 

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Well you haven;t taken any of our advice so far so why start now ? - But here goes... If it's "semi kinked" than you could make a case that the inner area is the same as it ever was, just kinda oval now - If it's kinked then you could splice in a compression connector & cut out the kink - Im having a hard time believing you are gonna make all the bends necessary fm Passenger side all the way fwd then the 90's for across front then the all the 90's it takes to mate to Rad without a Tubing Bender or a BUNCH of kinks - Has it occurred to yet that you could have kept the old Rad & just did the almost straight shot up passenger side to under Bumper with a maybe $50 Aux Cooler ____?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Because the tranny fluid turned out to be leaking both from the middle of the radiator (straight stream toward the engine) and from corroded lines, I decided to replace the rad, what with lots more road salt coming soon and the chance that the rad might be ready to go - much more pleasant and easy to change outdoors at 55 degrees than 15 and snowing. So the extra $50 for a replacement radiator seemed worth it to avoid potential trouble with the coolant side of things if everything was getting worn down there.

So choosing not to put in the cooler as an alternative is not snubbing all your great advice, which I appreciate, but weighing what my options are and choosing the one I'm able to tackle financially and with my particular skill set, while also thinking about what my daughter could deal with if the solution went south some late night when I'm not around to assist. Since the coolant was old and in need of changing as well, the time seemed right to do it all in one shot and hope for the best. I guess we'll see....
 

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Got it - New Rad makes sense then with the NY Road Salts vs old Aluminum Rad - My guess is that you end with plumbing up combination of new hard tubing & here & there some proper hoses using the proper compression to barb fittings - There is a dude overkill hose for about $3 a foot - This will be a PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So Buck - compression fittings with a union would work as well as barbs with hoses? I can see I'll need to spread the lines apart along side the motor where I'm tying in - I had considered flaring with a union, or a more modest flare with hose and clamps, but if compression fittings will hold and I can stagger the unions on each line so they'll fit better I might just go with that, although I do have good hose and 8 clamps ready to roll.
 

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So Buck - compression fittings with a union would work as well as barbs with hoses? I can see I'll need to spread the lines apart along side the motor where I'm tying in - I had considered flaring with a union, or a more modest flare with hose and clamps, but if compression fittings will hold and I can stagger the unions on each line so they'll fit better I might just go with that, although I do have good hose and 8 clamps ready to roll.
If your New Tubing is anything like the old Tubing they are HELL to Flare - IIRC fm my Tranny Cooler Line Mod this is METRIC sized Tubing so I carry a hunk of it to a REAL Plumbing Part Type guy & make sure you get the RIGHT size Fittings - There's nothing wrong with a proper Compression Fitting & it's WAY better than a bad Flare job - There's nothing wrong with the proper type hose either - Unless I could splice in 2 pieces of Tubing that already had a factory Flare already on it for the Adapters at Radiator I would probably just swap out stock Adapter at Rad for Compression Adapters.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I've done one inline splice of the metal line with a piece of 400-psi tranny oil hose and two fuel-injection band-style clamps on each side, and the second with about 6-8" of hose making the 90=degree bend with the same clamp arrangement. if it doesn't leak, I'm golden - if it does, then I guess I'll try compression fittings.

One guy at the store said compression fitting with a union was the way to go, because there's "no real pressure" in the line, and his partner was like "no way would I use that - too much pressure in the line". So good advice is hard to come by except on these boards!
 

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Use a flaring tool to put a bubble at the end, even swaging it with a punch will work, you have to have something that will stop the line from blowing off.
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Maybe my flaring tool is too worn, but every time I tried to flare the new tubing it would just slide back through the hole. So the lines are just cut off with hose and clamps. No good?
 
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