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Discussion Starter #1
Well, like I got the problem from my last post down to the transmission. I went to my mechanic, and we were trying different things..

Symptoms:

All gears (neutral included) EXCEPT MANUAL 2 will "lock up" the rear wheels. I need to press the gas hard, then there is a clank, like a clutch slipping, and it will move for a little bit then lock up the wheels again. I can get the car to move in drive/reverse/1 but i need to give it a lot of gas, and the wheels feel like they are braking hard.

I replaced the MLPS, same thing...

The mechanic, who is a transmission guy, said he doesnt think its mechanical but something electrical, or something wrong with the valve-body.

He said it may be the shift solenoids, but he doesnt know for sure - he doesnt have the equipment to test it properly (And i dont have the money either)

I'm going to drop the pan/valve body to see whats going on.

Any ideas?

-Andrey
 

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MadRussian said:
Well, like I got the problem from my last post down to the transmission. I went to my mechanic, and we were trying different things..

Symptoms:

All gears (neutral included) EXCEPT MANUAL 2 will "lock up" the rear wheels. I need to press the gas hard, then there is a clank, like a clutch slipping, and it will move for a little bit then lock up the wheels again. I can get the car to move in drive/reverse/1 but i need to give it a lot of gas, and the wheels feel like they are braking hard.

I replaced the MLPS, same thing...

The mechanic, who is a transmission guy, said he doesnt think its mechanical but something electrical, or something wrong with the valve-body.

He said it may be the shift solenoids, but he doesnt know for sure - he doesnt have the equipment to test it properly (And i dont have the money either)

I'm going to drop the pan/valve body to see whats going on.

Any ideas?

-Andrey

you have internal issues with the transmission this transmission needs removed dissasembled and inspected
 

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I tend to believe that it is a hydraulic problem. Here is what I would check:

Shift Linkage can be damaged or out of adjustment -- Inspect and service as required. Verify linkage adjustment and confirm that the TR sensor is properly adjusted.

Valve Body -- 3-4 shift valve, 1-2 and 2-3 shift valve gaskets, 3-4 capacity modulator valve can be stuck, damaged or misaligned. Service as required. The OD server assembly can be stuck. Inspect cover, piston and seal for damage.

Overdrive -- OD band, reverse clutch drum assembly worn or damaged. The intermediate over-running clutch assembly can be damaged.

The reverse band (for 1st only) can be damaged or missaglined.

Make sure you get a price before you begin the work. Sometimes it is less expensive to buy a remanufactured Ford transmission from a Mark VIII or a 5.4L Truck and swap over the MLPS, TCC solenoid and etc. I personally like my old Art-Carr… Then there are vendors who sell the J-Mod transmission. I am sure they will give you a price. Look around compare prices (delivery taxes and etc), talk to your local trusted mechanic and do what you think is best for you…

I wish you the best of luck and hope it is something simple.
 

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If even neutral causes the wheels to be locked up, I'd highly suspect something inside the transmission is broken and caught 'in the works'. I could be wrong but it doesnt sound good.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies... I'll most likely drop the pan tomorrow and start tesing stuff.

2nd manual has engine braking, which means the OD band is fine.

Now here are some ideas: It feels as though the tranny is "in 2 gears at once" and that this engagement of the "other" gear is intermittent. I am still thinking it could be the shift solenoids trying to engage another gear, while the shift lever in in a different one.

As I was driving through heavy rain and sleet, I'm still thinking this should be electrical, or maybe related to the ECU. When the guy was running codes (he had a fancy snap-on scanner) he said it shows the trans in 1st gear, regardless of the lever position, he also said the scanner could be wrong. No trouble codes though... This is what prompted me to change the MLPS.

Could the ECU or wiring from the trans to the ECU cause these issues?

I think my plan of attack is to check the valve body, pistons, accumulators, and test the current to the shift solenoids, and the solenoids themselves. Maybe get another ECU from the u-wrench it and try that too...

Then I need to get a mark VIII trans from greenleaf I guess...

-Andrey
 

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What your scanner showed was correct, P R N D and 1 will all show 1st gear like that. however, i suppose that a cross-leaking valvebody could lock the drivetrain if don just the wrong way... but if you havent messed with the tranny in a while and it acted up out of the blue, i'd nix that theory. Unlikely in this case, given the problem youve got. i still think somethings shattered, like a one-way clutch...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
UPDATE:

Well, I took the pan down today, and its not looking good.

The fluid is glistening with metal. No large chunks or anything, but the fluid is saturated with "metal dust". Magnet looks like a hedgehog. Note: <10K on new fluid.

Seems like i need a tew transmision.

Whats a good price to replace a tranny, Greanleaf has a good selection of 98 Mk8 transmissions. Are they a direct swap?

My mechanic quoted me $720 for labor, flush, fluid, and seals. I dont know what to look for pricewise but that seems too high.

Thanks for the help.
 

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And don't forget the Torque Converter while you're at it. If you're full of metal, your's is probably shot (IMO)

I think Dennis listed some great prices on the Marauder TC's, and now would be the time to upgrade to that. :thumbsup:
 

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I agree. Once a transmission is shot you toss the TC. If you put a bad TC on a toasted tranny you will have problems. Replace both.

Will a Marauder TC fit? I heard that (at least the new ones) the Maurder is sporting a new transmission. It will be interesting to get more detail.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well, I was messing with it some more, tested the shift solenoids; resistance was good and they clicked when I connected a 9volt battery to them. So with my sophisticated testing done I must conclude that they are fine.

No here is the interesting part. I hooked up a multimeter to the shift solenoid connector, turned the car to "run" (obviously didnt start it up) In all gears, the solenoid connector, for both solenoids, is showing constant 11.x V

Does this mean the computer is telling them both to be energized?

Should the car be running when I am trying to test this?

-Andrey
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK, tested continuity for the SS1, SS2, and 12V - checks out fine, no shorts or unexpected grounding.

The next thing is the ECU


-Andrey
 

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You are going about this all wrong, most reputable transmission shops can put a stand alone in series with the transmission wiring harness, with this they can verify the EEC is commanding the correct shifts, if this is correct then as I said from the very beginning its an internal issue
 

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The shift solenoids can select the wrong gear if faulty, but cannot select 2 gears at once. The metal in the ATF tells me that you really don't want that box in your car, even if you can fool it into working.

In addition to the new TC, be sure to flush out the cooler and its lines, and install a filter in the cooler return line to catch any metal that the flush didn't. Ford makes a filter kit for this purpose.

Ford remans are OK, but the Reinhart build has all the updates and tough parts and the J-mod already installed. I'd play junkyard roulette before I'd let the franchise tranny guys do a rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Aww danget, and I already had an appoinment with AAMCO:uppoint:

Yea, I'm taking thre car to Allen Transmission, supposed to be a really nice place. I want the computer diagnosed, so even if I do get another tranny, it wont have the same symptoms.

-Andrey
 

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If you look at the junkyard route make sure you can return the transmission. I have seen pros install a tranny from a bone yard only to do it a second time after the first one did not work. A wise decision would be to check for metal before installing.

You can use the TQ that comes with the junk yard transmission just do not swap them for the fun of it. If you have the cash get a stall converter. It is one of the best seat of the pants mods you can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Youre absolutely right, the tranny shop has a dyno, so they can test a junkyard tranny. Of course I'm still taking a chance.

-Andrey
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, Thanks for all of your help, here is an update.

The shop installed a 29K Mark VIII tranny in my car. Now shifts fine, feels a little more "loose" with the mark torque converter. One issue is the shop filled it with Dexron III, and I can feel a slight shudder when I am gently on the gas at speeds above 30. I assume I need to drain it and fill it up with Mercon V to fix this?

Now.. the tranny is a little too smooth for my liking and I want to do the J-Mod to it like my old one. I couldnt find the specs for the holes, and information about springs for a 98. Isnt the 98 supposed to be slightly different than the previous trannys?

Thanks,
Andrey
 

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If you had lots of metal in the pan, I hoped they flushed out your radiator good, otherwise you may have problems again.
 
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