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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For the last 12-16 months my car's 1-2 shift has been rather 'torquey'(?). My right rear wheel routinely breaks traction. At first it was kind of cool and maybe a bit fun but it obviously has a dark side which is now creeping up when I'm driving normally. It also is destroying the outer frame to strut rod bushing. I don't mind changing that bushing because it's rather easy but I don't want to lose control whenever winter comes back.

The only thing that I've physically done to the tranny was a filter and fluid change a few years ago. I do have a 'Jerry Chip' and the traction issue does coincide with the installation of the chip but I believe only because the increased line pressure makes a broken or missing spring more obvious. I want to do the Jmod and I'm aquiring the rest of the pieces for that but I feel like I'm using the Jmod to fix a problem. Maybe in this case that just the way it is.

I was considering adding Trac-lok because I want to install larger gears anyway. The tune is for 3:73 so maybe that has something to do with it.

Unless someone thinks I'm looking at this wrong I think I'm better off doing the Jmod before the larger gears.
 

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You have a broken accumulator spring, that is the shift problem. If you take the posi out you will not get a trac-lok to fit because the chevrolet rearend parts that you have cannot be replaced with ford parts that you want.
Alan
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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The tune being for 3.73s without a Jmod will simply command the shifts at a lower RPM, since with a numerically higher rear end the acceleration (and rate of RPM increase) will be higher.

My Cougar had a lower 1-2 accumulator spring that was broken into three pieces which caused an occasionally snappy 1-2 shift. The Cougar is my cold season daily driver, and with the snow up here in NE Ohio, it made me a little weary.

That said, I recently did the J-mod at the most mild settings for the 94 valve body; I didn't increase the hole size for the #2 hole, which is the feed for the intermediate (1-2 shift) clutch, and I also left all the accumulator springs in. I also note that the original configuration didn't have an upper 1-2 accumulator spring. I ordered and installed the white upper and pink lower spring (v6 springs). The top spring controls the finish pressure of the stroke; the harder the spring the smaller the pressure differential between clutch pressure and line pressure when the accumulator stroke completes. (Or maybe it's the other way around, I'm still a little groggy and not thinking clearly lol)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The tune being for 3.73s without a Jmod will simply command the shifts at a lower RPM, since with a numerically higher rear end the acceleration (and rate of RPM increase) will be higher.

My Cougar had a lower 1-2 accumulator spring that was broken into three pieces which caused an occasionally snappy 1-2 shift. The Cougar is my cold season daily driver, and with the snow up here in NE Ohio, it made me a little weary.

That said, I recently did the J-mod at the most mild settings for the 94 valve body; I didn't increase the hole size for the #2 hole, which is the feed for the intermediate (1-2 shift) clutch, and I also left all the accumulator springs in. I also note that the original configuration didn't have an upper 1-2 accumulator spring. I ordered and installed the white upper and pink lower spring (v6 springs). The top spring controls the finish pressure of the stroke; the harder the spring the smaller the pressure differential between clutch pressure and line pressure when the accumulator stroke completes. (Or maybe it's the other way around, I'm still a little groggy and not thinking clearly lol)
Thanks for the info! It'll be useful when I begin buying the springs.
 
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