[1991 5.0]

Getting a Few different methods and clues to finding keyless entry code on my 95 . I read about its stamped on the back of black control box cover , which I removed and found multiple stamped codes .
I tried the " illuminated entry code" its 5 digits with one alphabet in between No luck .
Unless you have to actually press each digit carefully separated kind hard when one number seems to be part of a 2 number button.
So maybe your supposed to really pay attention to which exact numbers your pressing. I did this from a locked position and still no luck I haven't tried changing the combination order on the stamped code . But the 9/0 locks the doors

I even tried the keyless entry stamping code 5 digits with one alphabet.Neither work and the module looks old and original.

The small sticker on the trunk hinge that was supposed to have the code is long gone and no access to obd2 scanner currently any ideas on this .
If i was to get a obd2 scanner where is the code searchable within the scan tool?

 

[theterminator93]

The module is behind the trunk carpet on the left side.

 

[1991 5.0]

The module is behind the trunk carpet on the left side.

Codes are on the back of the black cover that covers the module , but none seem to work based on trying the stamped codes for illumination entry code and keyless entry code

 

[RalphP]

Getting a Few different methods and clues to finding keyless entry code on my 95 . I read about its stamped on the back of black control box cover , which I removed and found multiple stamped codes .
I tried the " illuminated entry code" its 5 digits with one alphabet in between No luck .
Unless you have to actually press each digit carefully separated kind hard when one number seems to be part of a 2 number button.
So maybe your supposed to really pay attention to which exact numbers your pressing. I did this from a locked position and still no luck I haven't tried changing the combination order on the stamped code . But the 9/0 locks the doors

I even tried the keyless entry stamping code 5 digits with one alphabet.Neither work and the module looks old and original.

Nu-uh.

NO alphabet in the code.

It will be like

12345

or something like that.

The other thing is to check the switches with a multimeter; if, for instance, all the codes you have are xx3xx and your 3/4 button is bad (BTW - one button, one switch, two digits; so the 12345 is the same as 11335 or 22446 or ... any other combo with those three buttons.)

Also, the button lock is 7/8 and 9/0 pressed at the same time; 7/8 may be stuck down causing bogus key codes.

Addendum: If you check the article at Keyless Factory Code it shows how to reprogram the module; pull the module and read the code from the programming on it if nothing else.

RwP

 

[Grog6]

The box looks like this:

The big number is the code. 13955, in this case.

It's also in ink on the inside trunk support arm, pass side, iirc.

 

[theterminator93]

At one point I remember a post where someone popped the cover off the module, and there was a section where it was obvious that you could interpret the circuitry to read the code. If I'm not imagining that, you can give it a try as a last resort.

 

[Grog6]

There's cut traces that set the code internally, you can change it.

Like all alarms, lol.

 

[RalphP]

Addendum: If you check the article at Keyless Factory Code it shows how to reprogram the module; pull the module and read the code from the programming on it if nothing else.

RwP

At one point I remember a post where someone popped the cover off the module, and there was a section where it was obvious that you could interpret the circuitry to read the code. If I'm not imagining that, you can give it a try as a last resort.

Uhhh ..


Gee, maybe the link I posted to, two messages previously?

(No cover off the top of, but a how to on how to reprogram one.)

RwP

 

[RalphP]

There's cut traces that set the code internally, you can change it.

Like all alarms, lol.

ACTUALLY, there's resistors soldered in ... but yah, code can be changed.

RwP

 

[theterminator93]

Uhhh ..


Gee, maybe the link I posted to, two messages previously?

(No cover off the top of, but a how to on how to reprogram one.)

RwP

What can I say, I'm getting lazy. :gapteeth:

 

[ErwinN]

I'm also interested in fixing my keyless entry, but my module looks slightly different. Unfortunately without any code printed on it as well. I'm going to open it up to see if I can retrieve the code from the resistors.

When searching for the box, I came across a grey module that wasn't connected. There's wiring that can be connected to it, but it was plugged off.
Does anyone know what this is for or why it's not connected?

 

[Grog6]

That is the keyless module; apparently, those were used through 1992.

The other box looks like an alarm module; unplugging it should disable the car by the starter relay, or at least it will in the later cars.

Is this it?

tbscshop.com sells parts for our cars, I hope they won't mind me using their images; I'd like to drive some business their way.

I see some tape on some of the wires, maybe that's to get around that, but IDK.

 

[ErwinN]

Looking at the connectors and in the electrical manual, it seems like it's the passive restraint module. That's for automatic seat belts, correct?
Which I don't have, so makes sense that it's not connected. Strange that Ford took the trouble the mount it in anyways?!

 

[Grog6]

ACTUALLY, there's resistors soldered in ... but yah, code can be changed.

RwP

Yeah, I'm not that familiar with the older cars.

Is that the seatbelt module for auto seatbelts?

I'd bet those aren't required in Europe, and probably considered dangerous.

That's probably why it was yanked.

 

[T6Rocket]

They are dangerous - the clicking sound of the seatbelts could eventually drive someone postal. The final straw would be when you open the door and try to get out fast and almost get decapitated.

Al