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It just boggles the mind the attraction to Flowmasters, like everyone with a performance car has to put them on. At least throw some quality Borla mufflers on there.

I had thoughts of making some exhaust changes to my 97. But even with no resonator it is whisper quiet, and I like it that way. My turbo car is loud, and one loud car is enough.

It is just that the stock dual 2" pipes into a single 2 3/8" pipe, back to dual 2" bugs me. Our CVPI has true 2" duals, no resonators, and an H-pipe. Nice low end torque, and a deep mellow cop car sound, but quiet on the hwy. I would love to have the same setup on my T-Bird, but the local exhaust shop that does mandrel bending would look at me funny if I asked for dual 2" mid-pipes! Low end torque is top priority for me.

Al
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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It just boggles the mind the attraction to Flowmasters, like everyone with a performance car has to put them on. At least throw some quality Borla mufflers on there.
The key with flowmaster 40s is mid mounting them ala SN95/Foxbodies(or any American car older than 1980 basically), that's what they were "tuned" for, but not all exhaust layouts are like that, especially now a days with a fuel tank where the mufflers would be, and nobody seems to comprehend that when they hear a truly good sounding foxbody with them. Having several feet of piping after the muffler outlet and to lesser extent having the tip pointed straight rather than turned down is key. They sound downright awful on these or any current "ponycar" where they essentially dump. Having a stickshift helps too, loud exhaust with auto shifting sounds lame :zwall:
 

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Having a stickshift helps too, loud exhaust with auto shifting sounds lame :zwall:
My auto in Lazarus is a manual, pretty much, lol.

It sounds great with 2.5" duals and a x-pipe, with $25 cheap oem size baffles on it. :)

I spent a long time on the shifts in the tune, before I put in the tranny with full-time lockup. :grin2:
 

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So I got my Trubendz system and took some measurements to see how much of the old exhaust I'd have to cut out in order to put the new exhaust in. I've figured roughly 24" from the rear most point of the center resonator flange (because holes in the stock piping) which puts me squarely on the straight sections just after the front cats. Trying to figure if I can use these: Click Me

Measurements came out to:
Distance between OD of stock piping: 18"
Distance between OD of Trubendz xpipe: 6.75"

As it stands on my car, the 24" measurement can be increased, but not decreased because of holes mentioned earlier and what I'm trying to figure out is if the angles on the linked items will work for replacing the section i would otherwise have to replace? I'm terrible with math and would appreciate the help...
 

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Just to clear up some confusion on my part.

89-97 Ford Thunderbird Dual Exhaust Tubing - with Crossover - Mandrel Exhaust Systems

^
this should fit up just fine after the TWO factory cats and O2's but it will get rid of the third cat (which shouldn't throw any codes since it's after O2's right). All I will have to do is take this piping and my mufflers of choice and an exhaust shop should be able to install it without any extra tubing. Correct?
 

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It worked for me.

You might need a little piping from the cats to the crossover that the shop can provide to line up to the crossover.

Joe
 

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It worked for me.

You might need a little piping from the cats to the crossover that the shop can provide to line up to the crossover.

Joe
Is it a bolt on deal, or a weld-on deal?

Just wondering because I know some auto shops that don't necessarily weld but they can put on bolt on/clamp on pieces.
 

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I would have the muffler shop add some flanges to make the middle section removable by unbolting.

Al
 

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I would have the muffler shop add some flanges to make the middle section removable by unbolting.

Al
If you hadn't bought it yet, they will add the flanges for you even though the website doesn't show it. They did it for me when I ordered mine.

Joe
 
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There wasn't one at the time. The ball/socket was added to mine on the tailpipe pieces, I'm not sure if you're looking for it elsewhere.

Here's a quote of the email I got from them when I inquired about the ball/socket option. I still saved it, this was 3 1/2 years ago.

Yes, we did remove the option due to low interest in the ball/socket option.

We can still make the systems with ball/socket though. If you order, just use the "notes" section when you order to request this option. You can also send a followup email to confirm.

Let me know if I can help with any other questions.
Hope this helps you out.

Joe
 

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I asked about flanges.

"Unfortunately we do not have a flange option on this system. Our jigs are not setup to have flanges pre-welded.

However, when you install the system you can make this modification during the install process."
 

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I just realized that the kooks I have are 3" collectors; will a 3" to 2.5" transition be ok, going to the 2.5" mandrel bent kit, or should I have gotten a 3" exhaust?

What's the easiest way to remove the exhaust manifolds? :)

No, I'm not pulling the engine. :D (and I've already considered C4, lol)

I'm going to get a stage 8 kit for the headers; any advice?

EDIT:

After searching heavily, I realize putting the headers on is going to be a *****!

It looks like the 3" to 2.5" adapters should be fine, although I'm wondering what kind of disconnect I need to use behind the pass seats, so it will come off in two pieces.

What do y'all think of these?

 

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I have a question though what is the stock size compared to the 2.25 and the 2.50 size. I am getting the pipes back but going to have them connect to a Flowmaster dual in dual out 2.50 inlet and outlet. would the 2.50 going to be a issue when I start connecting every thing? I am also going to have the muffler shop add some flanges to make it a little easy to take off if I need to drop the tank or need to change out a u joint if needed.

sorry if it is a bit to long as in as a book
 

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Stock size pipe is 2 inches.

Joe
 
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