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Raoul Duke
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Discussion Starter #42
Perhaps it can be consolidated with the thread I started regarding the quarter panel seams.
 

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Raoul Duke
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Discussion Starter #44
Thanks, Joe. I will continue to post my findings and, with any luck, this thread will help other members now and in the future.
 

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If it's a 95 it's an aftermarket/dealer installed spoiler so the seals used could be questionable or even non present. Clear silicone should do the job.
You can see seals under there. The dealer must have installed a lot of spoilers then cause I have seen other 95's with them.

Al
 

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They did, there were a few spoilers made for these cars by aftermarket suppliers at the time that dealers would gladly offer and install. Sort of like the bostonian or other vinyl brougham half tops on Cougars seen all the time.
 

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If it turn out you need the rubber seal give Steele Rubber a try. I needed a new gasket but could not find one through Ford, so I found these guys. I was very nervous about aftermarket rubber, as I have had some crappy replacements in the past. But this rubber seal was really nice, and $53 delivered. Another bonus is they are made in the USA in NC.
I am not affiliated in any way, just pleased and I figured with the age of our cars, others will need this stuff. They have door seals as well, but I have not tried them yet.

http://www.steelerubber.com/
 

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If you lift the bottom corner of the rear window molding you'll most likely see the crack continue and possibly even get bigger and spread apart. I filled it up under the rubber with silicone n i'll have to see what happens
 

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The silicone under the window molding helped some, but didn't cure itt. Figured out that at the roof line where the body lines go under the window molding gives water a direct path to the trunk. Filled it up with silicone too n the leak finally stopped! Hope this helps
 

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Well, my trunk is still dry, but after a whole day of pretty good rain i was cleaning the insides of the windows i brushed up against the headliner and my arm came back wet. So i guess with stopping the water from going to trunk it just backs up on top of the rear window. This might be where alll of our problems with a wet trunk originated. Gonna try to reseal it n go from there
 

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As it seems to be the case with many of you, the seam for the rear fender was my leaky culprit. Pulled about 2 gallons from the trunk when I first noticed. To seal it, I cleaned the area with a de-greaser and then used Marine grade Goop. Fantastic stuff and it worked 100% as I just checked after this rare NY winter thunderstorm just passed through.
 

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Appreciate what has worked for others, this is my experience:

About two months ago, I noticed a musty odor in the trunk of my 95 LX. Remembering this thread I had read on tccoa.com, I checked it out to find a couple inches or rusty water in the spare tire well. I had my car in my one-car garage working other issues from late December through January, and it looked like the water had been in there at least that long. So I'm left wondering where did the water come from. In addition to the car being outside from last summer through December, occasionally I run a sprinkler under the car during the winter/spring to wash off the salt from underneath. So I was racking my brain about where could the water have come from.

The donut spare although rust on the wheel appears to still be usable. Pumped it up to the recommended 60 PSI. I heavily oiled up and worked the jack and it also appears to still be usable. Pulled the floor covering out of the luggage compartment (trunk) and cleaned the rust stains off of that. Pulled out the lower cushion of the back seat, no water found there.

Starting off with a dry trunk, I lined it with kraft paper, thinking it would allow me to see the source of a leak. Then washed the car and ran the sprinkler underneath it. No water found in the trunk. Then with the trunk lid open I ran the hose on the area around the trunk outside of the weatherstripping, no water leaking into the trunk. Still not finding the source of the leak.

Last week I did a thousand miles of highway driving, mostly in the rain. The Washington to Boston 500 and back. It poured while I was there. No water in the trunk.

After I got home, I reinstalled the luggage compartment floor cover and plastic piece that attaches to the rear of the luggage compartment. After I installed it, I noticed that the plastic piece was overlapping the trunk weatherstripping. Speculated that that could cause water to leak into the trunk. I fixed that, pulled the weatherstripping so it was outside of the plastic piece that runs the width of the rear of the luggage compartment.

I'm concluding that the reason for the trunk of my car collecting water in the spare compartment is because either the trunk weatherstripping wasn't properly sealing around the rear trunk plate, or maybe, I left the car out in the rain with the trunk lid not closed tightly and rain got in. In any event, on my '95 LX, I think the problem was because of an insufficient seal of the trunk weatherstripping. I think the water leaked in when it rolled down the trunk lid around the weatherstripping until it fell into the trunk through an untight seal at the bottom. If in the future I find otherwise I'll provide an update on this site as needed.

Good luck finding the source of any leaks if you have this problem.
 

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Update: I was patting myself in the back for fixing the problem prematurely, the leak came back. Put paper in the trunk again and found a leak. Had JB Weld on hand so I used that to fill the cracks, then the heat gun to help it to flow into the cracks. Seemed to work with the garden hose test but left the paper until after a rain test. Leak came back. Pulled the trim next to the rear glass and found more cracks. More JB Weld. Seems to have finally worked. Time will tell.
 

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I believe I would use GE Clear Silicone in a caulk gun before JB Weld, or the aforementioned "Goop", lol! The silicone sticks really well, and obviously is waterproof. It is also very pliable, and should be able to shrink/expand from cold and hot weather.

Al
 

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Most sealers would do the short-term job. The pros use automotive-grade seam sealer. I got some Dynatron seam sealer (3M product) from autozone but I couldn't bring myself to puncture the $15 tube for a couple inches of crack. Saving it for when I do the bodywork and repaint.
 

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I use humaseal 1A20 thinned with xylene; it soaks in before it solidifies, doesn't leak after that.
 
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