[BlueEyes]

Digging up an old one. I think this post is a good candidate for the Tech Articles. The one that was written by the old MN12performance site was really vague and didn't explain parts well or have good pics. I think this is the way to go if you want the lifts.

One thing I would add, if you get aftermarket lifts instead of F4ZZ-63406A10-B like I did it doesnt come with the ball stud that goes into the coupler. You can order those from McMaster also:

10mm ball stud: 9512K73 $1.03 ea.

 

[BlueEyes]

The ones I got from McMaster had the correct threads. If you look at the specs it will have the pitch listed there. But a good idea to double check everything to make sure it all fits together.

 

[BlueEyes]

Trunk Lid FYI

So I took my Bird over to Tim's to have him put the lift supports on the trunk lid, since everyone has said that with 2 lifts even with the spoiler the lifts were too much and slammed the trunk up. With this info I decided to have Tim take the tension rods out and give that a try. After taking out a huge life insurance policy on Tim he pried and prodded the rods out. One popped hard and he said he saw sparks fly inside the trunk but he had the lid closed mostly and just his arm in there. So everyone knows, I can lift it up with one hand and hold it up fairly easy but without the tension rods 2 lifts (the stock Mustang ones) are not enough to open the trunk all the way.

Getting info on the strength of the lifts hasn't been easy but it is out there. the company that makes the ones I have: Sachs don't have the technical specs online but I found out I can call and get the info. I just need to know the total weight of the trunk lid plus the spoiler then I can get the correct ones. I've been thinking too that with the hardware described in this thread the coupler creates a weak spot at the rear deck. because of the length of the coupler it gives the lift more of a tendency to flex that mounting point and if I put stronger lifts in it will flex even more with more pressure. The coupler method is easier to install since the stud is already there but I was thinking that a more flushed mounting point on the rear deck would make it stronger and less likely to flex. I'm going to look on McMaster Carr and try to find a more appropriate bracket to attached the lift to the deck.

While checking online for different lifts and looking for specs I found this from Stabilus:

http://www.stabilus.com/electric-motor-drives.html

http://www.stabilus.com/electric-motor-drives/us-powerise-series-types.html

When I figure out what the total weight of the trunk lid is with the spoiler I think I am going to try going this direction. Install a system that opens and closes the trunk by itself but I haven't been able find a cost estimate on them yet, I need to find a local dealer.

 

[BlueEyes]

I was just thinking of using a flat bracket with a 10mm ball and a nut on the stud to hold it down. You would have to take out the rear deck to get it all on there tight but it takes out that flex point. Also my deck only had one of the studs there so Tim had to put one in on the drivers side, the hole is actually covered by the seat belt cover so you could put a bolt, nut or whatever and it won't raise up the carpet or whatever you have on your deck.