[Kaptn' Obvious]

I've intentionally avoided installing a real temp gauge just to keep things looking clean. I've also been fighting what I've thought was a nasty overheating problem for quite a while.

I let the car get good and "hot" today (temp gauge almost full on pegged) then I got after it with a calibrated laser temp gauge.

This is what I found:

Thermostat housing 204*

Coolant crossover 206*

Upper Rad hose 205*

Water pump 215*

Radiator 135*

She's running a little on the warm side, but nothing like the 240-250 I expected to see.

If I let it idle for a few with the ac off and the needle points straight up and right at the 195* for the factory thermostat.

I've changed the temp sender for the 1D10T gauge and I still get the same results from the dash.

I'm going to do a little "surgery" on the thermostat and see if that doesn't fix my mild problem with a twitchy temp needle.

Just thought I'd pass it along...

 

[Grog6]

Did you burp the air bubble out of the upper manifold?

That's a common cause of weird temperature readings, and intermittent overheating.

 

[Boston-Bull]

X2 Burping that thing is important

 

[Kaptn' Obvious]

burped her twice, this round still no luck...

It's been doing this for YEARS. seems to get worse each summer

 

[RalphP]

Did you burp the air bubble out of the upper manifold?

That's a common cause of weird temperature readings, and intermittent overheating.

I'll bite - How do we burp it? It's a bit large to toss over my shoulder and go "There, there" while patting its back ... :tongue:

RwP

 

[Downbylaw]

Let it warm up fully with the reservoir cap off and the heat on high. If there is air in the system, you should see a few bubbles come up and pop in the reservoir.

 

[Kaptn' Obvious]

I'll bite - How do we burp it? It's a bit large to toss over my shoulder and go "There, there" while patting its back ... :tongue:

RwP

I did my favorite method:

Parked nose high & the upper Rad hose off, and return heater hose off Hold the upper hose high and add coolant until it leaks out the hose. Then start the motor with the upper hose installed with a screwdriver in the hose as a vent. let it warm up until.the thermostat opens and it starts pissing coolant. Remove screwdriver, add hose clamp.

In the mean time both temp sensors goober lubed up and loosely installed. (Seeping coolant the whole time) Run it up to about 2K and hold for 2 min, & tighten senders.

I think I've pretty much dotted my I's and crossed my T's

I'm going to try it one more time with a semi-gutted thermostat:

Cut the t-stat portion out but leave the ring as a restriction to slow down through the radiator and see how she acts.

If THAT doesn't work I'm going to go old skewl on it and custom build my own radiator: Find a larger core and build my own jugs that make the coolant make multiple passes through the radiator before it's returned to the motor.

I'm all done with keeping it stock: I have a Teskid wine rack that's patiently waiting my attention. A better radiator is on my list. However for the time being my beast of burden needs to make it through one more Texas summer before I take her out of service.

I'm taking a roadie to DullA$$ tomorrow night. I'll post my results with the gutted t-stat when I get back.

In the mean time I'm thoroughly pissed that my well loved beast of burden isn't up to par in it's factory configuration.

Me thinks I kolor wif da big crayonez? /weetard

Did I miss anything?

 

[RalphP]

Let it warm up fully with the reservoir cap off and the heat on high. If there is air in the system, you should see a few bubbles come up and pop in the reservoir.

Shuckin's, that ain't no burp!

That's a "Society Lady" burp.

I was expecting some kind of "This is how Larry the Cable Guy does his belches" ...

(As a relative point, there's a bleeder on my Malibu motor to burp it with ... )

RwP

 

[Kaptn' Obvious]

T-stat is gutted.

Burped it one more time.

At Idle the fan now cycles as it should.

As predicted it took it a while longer to warm up.

Spare water and tools in the trunk.

"put me on a highway & show me a sign..."

 

[Kaptn' Obvious]

Mr. E solved: The "dirty bird" quit in Dula$$

Seeping head gasket, cracked block, or head allowed combustion gasses to pool in the water jacket and keep the "juices" from flowing properly.

The SOHC is out, The Teskid DOHC is in the machine shop... I must say that I felt rather silly dropping off the block in the trunk of a Saturn. Something about more motor in the trunk than there is under the hood?

Cheap cars rule?!?

=D