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I run 5w20 in my 2005 Marquis and 5W30 in the 97 Cougar ... .02
 

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I would stick with the 5-30 and motor craft brand because it is a blended oil.
 

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I run 5w-20 in my 95 car.But thats what the motor calls for.I only use Motorcraft oils and Motorcraft filters.

You can use 10w-30.It won't hurt anything and I think it is recommended for engine's with higher miles???

My motor has maybe 12k on it.So thats why I use the 5w-20
 

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A very repuatable ford powertrain engineer and tuner has stated that 10w-30 is acceptable for use in 4.6Ls.
Name a few ... I studied Tribology in School and what MOST people think they know about oil is just that ... They think they know oil and they think they know what's important in an oil for a specific engine ...

There are not many automotive engineers that are Tribologists just the same.. They source out that part of the expertise and interface with each other ... But may not be aware of WHY the blending engineers did it a certain way ...

And honestly in the last 6 years of net forums I have attended and ran, maybe 1-5% of the populace actually knows something about lubricants with enough knowledge to give advice ... The rest are repeaters of other's recommendations, and repeaters of marketing ploys ...

Not trying to stir the pot, but I tend to get tired of all the "motor oil" authorities on the net ... Also, the BEST recommendation I have seen thus far is what the guy above said about, "go with what's on the cap" ...

FWIW, here's a tidbit ... With GF-4 on scene as a general spec, 5W30 is not the same 5W30 it was when these cars were built ...

Oil has changed immensely when they built these cars and went through their protocols ...

A production V8 will not know the difference between a 5W30 and a 10W30 until you drop into the single digits or low teens at cold start ... If you don't have those ambient temps, run the 10W30 ... It will hold up better against hydrodynamic shear ... Because of course it starts it's life as a 10W fluid not a 5W fluid ...
 

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Just to test the waters here ... A question of sorts ... Let's see the answers we get ...

Question:

- Why is it that 70% or more of an engines wear in it's life span, comes from cold starts?" -

(explain the reason why it's so important to have oil flow quickly at cold starts)

have at it ... :)
 

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because after the engine has been off for a while most of the oil drains back into the pan, when its started up like that theres much less lubrication compared to when its been running
ok so I assume your answer is that with no oil flowing, you primarily have wear due to FRICTION?
 

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I normally stay out of oil discussions because it is normally a passionate thing with guys and nobody wants to be told anything about oil ... It's like telling someone their favorite load for deer hunting sucks or whatever ... It's a tough argument to win, but luckily there is enough factual information if you educate yourself on what is important in an oil and how to select a good one for your needs and budget ... Much smoke and mirrors in the motor oil industry there is and it's pretty funny and unfortunate as well... Unsuspecting Joe citizen walks down the aisle at wal mart having nothing but labels to read and which one appeals the most? or which one did Dad run? ... That's what a lot of people have and they get pretty defensive when good hard oil discussion comes up ... :(
 

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Name a few ... I studied Tribology in School and what MOST people think they know about oil is just that ... They think they know oil and they think they know what's important in an oil for a specific engine ...

There are not many automotive engineers that are Tribologists just the same.. They source out that part of the expertise and interface with each other ... But may not be aware of WHY the blending engineers did it a certain way ...

And honestly in the last 6 years of net forums I have attended and ran, maybe 1-5% of the populace actually knows something about lubricants with enough knowledge to give advice ... The rest are repeaters of other's recommendations, and repeaters of marketing ploys ...

Not trying to stir the pot, but I tend to get tired of all the "motor oil" authorities on the net ... Also, the BEST recommendation I have seen thus far is what the guy above said about, "go with what's on the cap" ...

FWIW, here's a tidbit ... With GF-4 on scene as a general spec, 5W30 is not the same 5W30 it was when these cars were built ...

Oil has changed immensely when they built these cars and went through their protocols ...

A production V8 will not know the difference between a 5W30 and a 10W30 until you drop into the single digits or low teens at cold start ... If you don't have those ambient temps, run the 10W30 ... It will hold up better against hydrodynamic shear ... Because of course it starts it's life as a 10W fluid not a 5W fluid ...

jerry.
 

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Well the best way to settle such questions, is to get some used oil samples sent to the lab, and see what works best in your motor.

There are oil experts like Terry Dyson that will analyze your used oil sample, and make recommendations.

I have seen some great reports with newer 4.6L and 5.4L motors with the motorcraft 5w20 motor oil, and its a bargain at 2 bucks a quart. It will do just fine for 5k run intervals.

If you get into supercharging the car, and richening up the tune, causing a bit of fuel dillusion in the oil, you will want something a bit more robust, like a synthetic shell rotella T motor oil.

But in anything close to a stock 4.6L with good seals, 5w20 is a great choice.
 

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I run 15W40 in my 4.6.

But that's a motor with over 275K miles and probably no valve seals left to speak of.
 

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Bravo ... Terry Dyson is a good name ... He hangs out over yonder at BITOG ...

JustinH, you hit it on the head ... UOA's show a good picture of what your oil is doing for you ... In these Ford modular motors, I think the evidence has been presented and gone over like a beaten horse that 5W20 oil is about the best there is for a NA daily driver as long as oil pressure is up enough at idle to support the HP level of the motor and/or the design requirements of the motor per the service manual ...

If you cannot make minimum ford recommended pressure with 5W20, then going up in viscosity is a temporary bandaid, in which case a rebuild should be in your plans ... If you make say 20psi at idle with say a 5w20 warm and say 30psi with a 10W30 warm, that doesn't mean you have more pressure ... It means you have increased film thickness at critical tolerances which might get you more life, but you still have lost overall flow volume over time, which carries significant benefits as well ...

And as you said, to make it easy ... In most any gas production vehicle in North America, wipe all the BS oils from the shelf and grab a bottle of the following in your recommended viscosity:

Pennzoil
Havoline
Chevron Supreme
Motorcraft/Conoco Phillips (in 5W20)

(or any GF-4 rated oil for that matter and keep your other maintenance items clean and the oil will do it's job) ...

And be done ... Run it for say 4,000 miles with a good manufacturer's filter and be done ...

Syns are another subject but not needed IMO in a daily driver running NA bearing pressures ... In that, syn is not required, just a good choice of conventional oil and weight per application ...

A general rule of MY thumb:

Run the thickest oil you can within the manufacturers recommendation/s for your ambient temperatures you NORMALLY see on cold starts ...

-------------------------

oh the answer to the question... The reason you have the BULK of engine wear at cold start-up is because the by-products of combustion on a cold fuel enriched motor permeate many parts of the engine and without oil bathing these unprotected engine parts from this CORROSIVE by-product, you get surface corrosion and adhesion to porous surfaces and this in turn REACTS on the surface causing erosion/corrosion and thus wear ... oil does not reach operating temp too quick which secondarily is not as good a detergent as hot oil bathing parts ... Having cold oil there in a few seconds is good, but ideally having warm oil pumping through a bypass 24/7 would be best as you would not have much wear as the time frame to allow by-product corrosion would be nil ...
 

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Isn't Terry an Amsoil worshiper? (can't remember) ... Them Amsoil reps aren't they wonderful ? :)
 
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