U/D Pulleys and Smog Pump
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I explained this on the board once before, but here goes again.. the easiest way to size a new belt (provided you are going smaller) is to use the old belt, put it on, and use a pair of needle nose vise grips to take up a loop of the slack on top... that way you can check the tensioner and make sure that you've got enough movement left when the new belt stretches etc... once you've found a good length, pull the old belt with the vise grips still attached and then go to the parts store. Keep checking against what you've got until you have a good match... this method has worked flawlessly every time for me.
-Jim A.
-Jim A.
Just got done putting in the ASP U/D Pulleys and taking out the smog pump this morning, and it was a hassle. The belt size I used was almost too short. If anyone is going to do this project, I say pick up a 900K6 belt instead of the 895K6 I used. When we finally got the belt around the tensioner, and the clutch fan back in the performance gains were noticeable. Feels much smoother during acceleration.
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366 Posts
did you need to use the smog pump deleate pulley? or did you just use a shorter belt? I want to get rid of mine, the pump is only 2 years old, but while its out of the car now (with the rest of the motor) it is already very hard to turn by hand.
Well, I took out the smog pump to free up a bit more horse power (prob. about 5hp). I used a shorter belt to bypass the pump itself, then I took off the whole pump and capped the tubes that were connected to it.
To answer your question, I used a shorter belt. You will have it really easy to the pump off now that the engine is out. Three bolts and a silly connector to a resevoir. Good Luck.
To answer your question, I used a shorter belt. You will have it really easy to the pump off now that the engine is out. Three bolts and a silly connector to a resevoir. Good Luck.
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366 Posts
i know how hard it was... it was a ***** to get it out when i replaced it two years ago... i think it took me 4 hours to do and once i got it off the motor i couldnt get it out!
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118 Posts
Was JUST informed by my local parts store what those numbers mean:2huh:
90 inches long 6 rib...900K6(obsolete) and KO6090
89.5 inch long 6 rib....895K6
so forth and so on
maybe you guys knew this...but it's news to me!!
90 inches long 6 rib...900K6(obsolete) and KO6090
89.5 inch long 6 rib....895K6
so forth and so on
maybe you guys knew this...but it's news to me!!
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1,848 Posts
Does anyone have a problem with that extra large water pump pulley coming close to the balancer? After I put on my Romac balancer which is a lot thicker than OEM it came so close to the pulley that I had to use some washers to space the water pump pulley out some.
-J
-J
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159 Posts
That is a brand new stock balancer on Chris's car I installed it not too long ago. I also have the stock one on my 91 with no clearance problems on the water pump, but my new belt routing forced the removal of the larger water pump pulley. Now it looks funny with the water pump and the crank pulley being the same size.
-Alan
-Alan
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659 Posts
I'm just curious....how does spacing the w/p pulley forward get you clearance between it and the balancer, they are still the same distance apart.
oh and by the way unless you used washers exactly the same thickness you will probably have a wobble, and wear w/p bearings prematurely.
Mike
oh and by the way unless you used washers exactly the same thickness you will probably have a wobble, and wear w/p bearings prematurely.
Mike
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1,848 Posts
I'd much rather replace a water pump (lifetime warranty) than an almost $300 balancer. Also as far as moving it out, it was just barely touching it the back rim of pulley wiht the top outer part of balancer, so with the washers, it moves the w/p pulley out further so that it's not in far enough to even be close to the balancer. If that's hard to follow let me know and I'll take a picture.
-J
-J
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118 Posts
Are those stock pullies in that pic, LX?
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