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Discussion Starter #1
Just curious if anyone can give me an answer,

I have a tough time keeping my 'bird cool out on the track, if I go with U/D pulleys, will this make my overheating worse? I run constantly between 3500-5500RPM. I'm hoping that someone will think I'm pumping the water to fast to cool the engine and that the U/D will actually help me.

Any ideas?


Thanks guys,

Brandon
 

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When does the temperature problem occur?

I knew pump speed to be a problem on small block Chevys running stock water pumps. Don't know about Fords though I hear for the 4.6 guys the stock pulley configuration is already pretty aggressive. You could try an underdrive. Worst case scenario is that you pick up a few horsepower if it doesn't cure your cooling issues.

Other things to look at:

* You run on dirt. Do you wash the dirt out of your radiator core every week?
* Thermostat may be sticking or the wrong temperature. I knew some guys who simply removed their thermostat and would overheat every week. Another alternative are these restrictor plates which would definitely alter the flow through your radiator at a fraction of the cost of pulleys: http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=29018
These worked well for me once I found the correct size...and they can't stick. I see they don't have any for the 4.6, but maybe someone else does.
* If your water fill neck is not the highest point on the car's cooling system, you'll either have to jack it up until it is when you fill it or find a way to burp the air out of the engine from its highest point (which is often the thermostat housing).
* Ensure an adequate air flow is getting to the radiator.
* Electric or mechanical fan? If the former, make sure it's large enough. If the latter, look at your shrouding. If you have no shroud, consider making one as that will make a big difference in how much air flows through...even at speed but especially during the cautions.
 

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i've had U/D pulleys on my 4.6 now for over a year. No overheating problems as far i can tell. The only difference i saw was is my charging amps but its not really a big deal.

As for you over heating problem i cant think of much more than what teflonjohn said besides making sure the coolant is good (i dont mean to insult you im just saying).

-good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
TeflonJohn, here's what I've done last year to go along with your points (in same order):
*I was out the rad every week, and sometimes between the heat race and feature at the track if the track is real heavy.
*I didnt pull my thermostat the whole way out, but I did gut it, all I have left is very similar to what you have posted, just a plate that has the normal size hole (I didnt bore it out or anything, just removed the t-stat)
*My car does hang a little on the LF, and I'm still running the stock cooling system setup, I always made sure that the overflow was full, but I'll be sure to jack the LF of the car up from now on.
*I have a pretty open grille, and I fabbed up a scoop that is on the bottom of the radiator support (kind of like the factory deal) and the scoop seemed to help some)
*I run the factory electric fan, hard wired to high speed and a toggle switch, that I run all the time.

I really think that my cooling issue comes from the harsh conditions combined with a factory style radiator. I just wanted to make sure that under drive pulleys wont compound my issue further. Under racing conditions after about 15 green flag laps, the car will be 230*-240*, luckily that is our normal feature race length, and we only go non stop on occasion. Under cautions, the car quickly cools to around 160*

Thanks for your input guys,

Brandon
 

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Cools down on cautions. Likely rules out fan/shrouding issues. The gutted thermostat may be OK. You could always try a high-flow thermostat for comparison just to rule it out. 230-240 is high. 210-220 would be more optimum.

Capacity may indeed be a factor if you're running the basic stock radiator. I remember having to upgrade to a 4-core stock GM for some applications and an aftermarket aluminum for others. Not completely cheap, but also not difficult to fix.



TeflonJohn, here's what I've done last year to go along with your points (in same order):
*I was out the rad every week, and sometimes between the heat race and feature at the track if the track is real heavy.
*I didnt pull my thermostat the whole way out, but I did gut it, all I have left is very similar to what you have posted, just a plate that has the normal size hole (I didnt bore it out or anything, just removed the t-stat)
*My car does hang a little on the LF, and I'm still running the stock cooling system setup, I always made sure that the overflow was full, but I'll be sure to jack the LF of the car up from now on.
*I have a pretty open grille, and I fabbed up a scoop that is on the bottom of the radiator support (kind of like the factory deal) and the scoop seemed to help some)
*I run the factory electric fan, hard wired to high speed and a toggle switch, that I run all the time.

I really think that my cooling issue comes from the harsh conditions combined with a factory style radiator. I just wanted to make sure that under drive pulleys wont compound my issue further. Under racing conditions after about 15 green flag laps, the car will be 230*-240*, luckily that is our normal feature race length, and we only go non stop on occasion. Under cautions, the car quickly cools to around 160*

Thanks for your input guys,

Brandon
 
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