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Discussion Starter #1
so I was "looking forward" to replacing my UCA and LCA on the drivers side today, thinking it would clear up the rest of my knocking suspension, and to my amazment it hasn't.

Everything sounds exactly the same, I'm not sure the control arms were the cause....so now I don't know what to do the swaybar end links seem sturdy and don't move or have any play when I reef on them.....

so what do I do now??? I was hoping to have it all cleared up by winter but im not so sure now if I can since I don't know what the hell is knocking now.

any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
if that's the one on the arm with the flat spot that connects from the front of the car/chassis to the empty hole in the LCA, then I'm not so sure that's it either. even those are in great shape and don't appear to be rotton, cracked or otherwise damaged or loose.

I'm going to have to see if I can get a video with the sound to maybe help identify it, but I still would like to know what to check, and how to check it. I gotta find this knocking and put an end to it.
 

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Everything sounds exactly the same, I'm not sure the control arms were the cause....so now I don't know what to do the swaybar end links seem sturdy and don't move or have any play when I reef on them.....
That don't mean they aren't bad though.
 

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That don't mean they aren't bad though.
+1 Informative.

Take one of the endlinks loose; you will find that the top joint is frozen, and the bottom one rattles easily.

:)
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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+1 on checking the endlinks. Mine looked okay and even felt fine off the car - but my clunking was coming from them because it went away after I replaced them. If you want to be sure before throwing money at new parts, just remove both sides entirely and drive around for a while to see if it makes noise.
 

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I also have the same problem. I replaced my UCA's, and endlinks but I'm still hearing the damn racket. It is a OT less than it was before though. I took a rubber mallet and lightly started tapping suspension parts and found that my inner tie rods are making noise. The strut rod bushings (strut side) look to need replacement, but the frame side looks pretty good. I need to dig a little more and find where the noise is EXACTLY. I hate throwing parts at a car but with 151K on it, they will need replacement soon anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok I got some video, it isn't the best, but the knocking can be heard, however it doesn't sound exactly the same, its a pretty good representation.

PLEASE TURN BASS DOWN OR ALL YOU WILL HEAR IS MY EXHAUST....the camera really picks up the bass for some reason, it isn't actually that loud.

Knocking starts around 1:12 or so. Then about 1:20 you hear my IAC acting up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZaaGcqtx8E
 

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Strut rod bushings.
Could be a subframe bolt, or the upper spring mounts also.
These are what I have found to be common areas to cause popping or clunking.Also the lower spindle upright bushing can cause this.Settling of the suspension after working on it can do it.I'd put about 10 miles on the clock after suspension work and recheck if it's still noisy.
 

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That almost sounds exactly like mine, although not as often as yours. Can you feel it in the floorboards?

I'm going to be replacing the strut rod bushings(control arm side) this week because they look fubar'ed. Even if they dont look all that bad, it could be problematic because you have a metal sleeve on the inside and you cant tell what the bushing looks like on the part that's actually inside the control arm.

I also know that my inner tie rods are making some of the noise and they will be replaced as well. I do one thing at a time though so I KNOW what fixed the problem for next time(if there will be a next time), or someone has the problem here.
 

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It kind of sounds like an upper shock mount bushing or spring isolator.Have you check those?
 

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It sounds like it does it when the road gets rough. Have you replaced strut mounts. I did the struts and mounts when I had that noise and horrible bounce in the struts and that stopped it. I recently changed LCAs and didn't torque down the strut rod nut and the LCA subframe nut and bolt enough after resetting suspension. It popped loudly when I begin to roll and turn the steering wheel especially backing up and when I stopped hard. I torqued both points down more and everything else on the suspension to make sure and no more pops. Hope this helps man
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hey mine makes noise too when I turn the wheel, sounds like a popping or something shifting and then hitting something else.


Where exactly are these nuts/bolts I should be checking??

I dont know which ones they are by name, and I don't know how to check if they are loose cause everything I check seems to be tight, but obviously something isn't ...
 

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The strut tension rod nut is on the backside of the LCA facing the firewall. It has a rubber protector on it or its supposed to if it doesn't and it is the first mounting point closest to the wheel on the LCA. The subframe nut and bolt is at the end of the LCA (opposite of ball joint side) and mounts to the subframe also know as the the (camber bolt). With the subframe nut and bolt you have to use a wrench or socket on both sides to prevent the bolt from spinning. If you are going to attempt this get a good light and mark your camber position with whiteout or something. These marks are on the plate attached to the head of the bolt almost like a big oval washer and it moves as you loosen the bolt so keep an eye on it. The good thing is because its oval it wont spin all the way around. Remember the head of the bolt faces the fire wall.If the mark moves try to get it as close as you can to the marks you made with the whiteout. Remember go over everything that came off while the control arms were changed: Strut bolts on LCA, Ball joint nut, etc. Just check everything with the suspension period.
 

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hey mine makes noise too when I turn the wheel, sounds like a popping or something shifting and then hitting something else.


Where exactly are these nuts/bolts I should be checking??

I dont know which ones they are by name, and I don't know how to check if they are loose cause everything I check seems to be tight, but obviously something isn't ...
Oh yeah thats exactly how mines did. A loud pop and felt like something shifted and the wheel is about to come off or something. Scared the hell out of me everytime. I dont know the exact torque specs on everything but I do know that my Strut tension rod and Subframe bolts were pretty lose and could tell that it needed tightened more. If you have the rubber stopper on the end of the strut tension rod (facing the firewall)just make sure it at least goes on to where it is flush with the thread on the end of the rod. My threads poke out probably a couple centimeters past the rubber stopper. Don't know if it is exactly right but it doesn't pop and shift anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
The strut tension rod nut is on the backside of the LCA facing the firewall. It has a rubber protector on it or its supposed to if it doesn't and it is the first mounting point closest to the wheel on the LCA. The subframe nut and bolt is at the end of the LCA (opposite of ball joint side) and mounts to the subframe also know as the the (camber bolt). With the subframe nut and bolt you have to use a wrench or socket on both sides to prevent the bolt from spinning. If you are going to attempt this get a good light and mark your camber position with whiteout or something. These marks are on the plate attached to the head of the bolt almost like a big oval washer and it moves as you loosen the bolt so keep an eye on it. The good thing is because its oval it wont spin all the way around. Remember the head of the bolt faces the fire wall.If the mark moves try to get it as close as you can to the marks you made with the whiteout. Remember go over everything that came off while the control arms were changed: Strut bolts on LCA, Ball joint nut, etc. Just check everything with the suspension period.
ok, those all look good, when I did the control arm replacements, I marked the camber, and it's all back in the right spot, tight and not the cause of the problem then.

My strut rod is also in good apparent shape, including the bushing.

This knocking sounds like it could be coming from the left side, as it always seems more prominent when I hit bumps on the left side of the car, but it also seems to come from the entire front, or maybe somewhere on the left side, close to middle, right around the driver, just ahead of the seat.

I'm so lost on this one.

Oh yeah thats exactly how mines did. A loud pop and felt like something shifted and the wheel is about to come off or something. Scared the hell out of me everytime. I dont know the exact torque specs on everything but I do know that my Strut tension rod and Subframe bolts were pretty lose and could tell that it needed tightened more. If you have the rubber stopper on the end of the strut tension rod (facing the firewall)just make sure it at least goes on to where it is flush with the thread on the end of the rod. My threads poke out probably a couple centimeters past the rubber stopper. Don't know if it is exactly right but it doesn't pop and shift anymore.
it doesn't do it all the time, it's actually kind of rare, but sometimes when I pull into my parking spot, when I turn the wheel it kind of makes some sort of light clunk, or pop when I turn the wheels back straight.

I'm starting to think that it's related to whatever the hell is loose under my car.

I wish I had some kind of idea so I would know what to check......but as it is now the camber bolt, and the strut rod bushins seem ok, and shouldn't be the cause of this noise.
 

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Did you check your sway bar endlinks? As in, replace or remove completely?

I have a feeling my steering gear is making some noise. I get a sound in turns only on occasion; I suspect the tie rods are at fault. Not sure of inner or outer however.
 

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Did you check your sway bar endlinks? As in, replace or remove completely?

I have a feeling my steering gear is making some noise. I get a sound in turns only on occasion; I suspect the tie rods are at fault. Not sure of inner or outer however.
I agree,but the steering rack bushings could be bad.
 
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