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Discussion Starter #1
This don't look good!!! :rolleyes:


Before:




After:




For the color challenged:




Bummer!! :(

-mike
 

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need proper arp studs

robert
 

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Discussion Starter #3

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Discussion Starter #5

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Prolly had head bolts in it

I reccomend arp 2000

Robert
 

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Ok, I give. What are we looking at with the blue to green color change and a couple of objects in the green fluid?
 

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It's presents of exhaust in the cooling system that stuff is made to change color if it sniffs exhaust
 

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It's presents of exhaust in the cooling system that stuff is made to change color if it sniffs exhaust
Interesting Thanks chief , that must be that expensive coolant . Interesting characteristic of it .
 

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No not coolant it's a fluid u put in the tester if it changes to yellow color it's seeing exhaust
 

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No not coolant it's a fluid u put in the tester if it changes to yellow color it's seeing exhaust
Thanks for the answer, Hopefully I will never need that type of tester.

Mike - you sure seemed to go through a lot with the GoldBird. Have to pay to play.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the answer, Hopefully I will never need that type of tester.

Mike - you sure seemed to go through a lot with the GoldBird. Have to pay to play.
Yeh, and wouldn't ya know it, now I have to find some old person with studs .... or that is a stud... or knows a stud .... or something... :confused:


-mike
 

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Do u know what was used on the car when built?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Pretty sure Jim used ARP studs on the build-up but keep in mind the engine overheated very badly... more then once!

-Scott
Yep, I've been chatting with Jim and he pulled my build sheet out of his files. I provided ARP studs to Jim for the blower build. I either had them to put into the N/A motor, or they were already in the N/A motor and he swapped them into the blower motor.

Overheating was an issue from the day the car came to Florida. She overheated on my first test ride before I got a half mile down the road. But from then on at first, it was intermittent. The car would run cool for a couple of weeks then overheat. It did that for a couple of months, while I was addressing other issues. It drove me crazy - tried all the usual stuff - new Tstat, no Tstat, flushed the system several times - even pulled the water pump and checked it.

Couldn't figure it out until the Cobra rad completely let go one day when I was on the road. The one thing I didn't do (duh) was closely monitor the coolant level in the overflow can. The best I and a local radiator guru could figure was that the Cobra rad had electrolized (we know that for sure) and there were pin holes. The coolant was leaking out in small quantities when the rad got hot and was under pressure while I was driving, and then evaporating on the hot rad when I stopped. When the motor cooled and the pressure decreased, there was no leak, so it never puddled under the car, so there was no visible hint of a coolant leak. Of course, the coolant level was slowly dropping in the overflow, but I never really saw the drop from one day to the next. Then it would overheat and of course the coolant level would be way low. I'd fill it up and the process would start again for a couple of weeks.

Until, one day, the Cobra rad just let go in a half dozen places all at once. I was stuck in traffic in a construction zone. There was one lane, and oil drums and barriers on either side. There was no place for me to go to get off the road and shut her down. By the time I got to a break where I could pull over, she got ubber-hot.

I called Max out in Arizona, and the same cobra rad he sold me through the Ford Racing catalogue back in the day for cheap, was around $600 (now apparently discontinued completely).

Because of other more pressing financial issues in my life, GB had to wait. She's been sitting for 2 years waiting for a radiator. I tried two Cobra rads from ebay and they both leaked. I couldn't use a radiator with plastic tanks because of the custom fittings that needed to be welded to fit the rest of the plumbing. The space where the rad needed to fit was limited by all of the other custom blower intake plumbing and re-routed wiring harnesses, ps fluid hose, trans fluid hose, etc. So radiator options were limited, unless I wanted to try to re-engineer all Scott's work, and I didn't want to do that.

Finally I found a radiator that I thought I could make fit, and saved the money to buy it. It's a triple pass replacement radiator for the 03'-04' Cobra rad, made to specs in California specially for, and sold by Lightning Force Performance. Here's a pic:



As you can see the tanks are way bigger and the rad is way fatter than the stock Cobra rad. I had to rearrange some things up front, but after much weeping, gnashing of teeth, and skinning of knuckles I got it installed.

Finally GB was up and running. I figgured that there was a good chance of other damage, and damned if I wasn't right about that. She started overheating again with the new radiator, so I ran the combustion leak test and got green. So there is an issue there for sure.

There is also what sounds like it might be a timing chain slap, and the motor runs like the timing is a bit out. So, I'm thinkin' I might have fried a tensioner or guide.

So this week I start to remove all the stuff hanging on the front of the motor, take the timing cover off and remove the heads and see what I'm up against.

Since the trans has to come out (I lost 3rd & 4th gear early on), I might pull the motor and trans out together, but that seems like a lot of work if all I need to do is replace a timing chain set and a head gasket.

So that is the continuing saga of GB. It has been a very, very long road.

But it's the journey, not the destination, right???

:)
-mike
 
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