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Ok, when I had gotten my cobra r's balanced, the guy at the shop had told me that my upper ball joints were pretty bad and needed to be replaced.


My car has been pulling to both the left and right. So I call the shop for a quote and he tells me its about $150-$200 for each side, plus labor the total would be about $400-$500.

That sounded a bit pricey....so tell me is it?
 

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That sounds like the shop is quoting you a 'hose job'. The uppers control arms
have the ball joints preinstalled. The UCA's cost ranges from $60 to $80 each.
It only takes a few hours to change them. Dust off your wrenches!
 

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UCA = upper control arm
yes you could order from Dan but the aftermarket replacement parts are just fine.
There is a aftermarket version that is equipped with a grease fitting, the factory version is sealed.
 

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call dan and order the upper control arms, they are about 70 bucks each side. Inspect the lower ball joints for play, and if they have play then replace the lower control arms also.

Check out the tierods also, and sway bar endlink bushings.

When you get done replacing suspension parts, get the alignment checked, and you will probably need an adjustment.

JH
 

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do a forum search for 'moog', they make the grease fitting equipped version. There are
links on that page. The job is very simple.
 

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With the execption of the moog equipped with the grease fitting, all arms seem to be
created equal and the need for the grease fitting vs. the sealed is probably not worth a debate.
 

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Just so you know..i did mine last weekend. I got mine from auto zone for 122 for both. Advance had both for 144. But you should def. get a 18 mm box wrench. It will make your life ALOT easier. It took me about 4 hours to do everything, but i just had a regular wrench and could get two of the bolts to break loose.... It is a pain to get at, esp if you have bigger hands. But it was worth saving the money. Hopefully this helps you.
 

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I did mine a couple of month ago and used the sealed version because I could get them quickly. For a part that seems to have a working life of less then 100k miles I really don’t think it makes any difference.
 

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dont bother unscrewing the bolt inside the fender took me about 5 hours to do the pass side..there is somthing on the end of the bolt inside the fender just break that sucker off save yourself alot of time.
 
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