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Discussion Starter #1
OK what is the trick to getting the upper control arms off? It looks like a total pain in the ars.
 

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Its easy as pie
 

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Discussion Starter #5
do you go at it from inside the fender well or inside the engine bay? it looks like a PITA to get to in the engine bay. However, it looks like just as much of a PITA to hit it from the inside with those tabs on the bolts
 

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Loosen from the engine is easiest I think hardest was by the brake lines; but doable with ordanary tools. I forgot if you can move some stuff away like the fuse box haven't done in long time so forgot. You might have to put a ratchet or another wrench on fender ones after broken free most likely. It's easy with the ratcheting wrench but can be done with regular wrenches just takes more time. A trick is to use when there is no room or its stuck on tight is use the 18mm wrench by putting it on the bolt u want to loosen. Next take another wrench; try smaller/ bigger wrenches for diff angles/levarage if one don't work and hook it onto the box end of the 18mm wrench for more leverage/angle. I don't know if you know that or not just a helpful tip for any work. The ball joint bolt is simple unscrew and remove bolt and raise joint upward or bash it out lol. It's really easy even if everything is connected but falls out almost if the endlink is removed from one side but I wouldn't do that lol. good luck
 

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Engine bay.

A/C Accumulator and (if you have it) the Teves Mk II ABS will cause consternation on the rear ;)

On the 1991, I removed the radiator overflow tank and the fuse block, made it really easy to get to those.

Leave the flags on the bolts - that'll help keep them from walking around on you during disassembly / reassembly.

I suggest you avoid my mistake, and take this time to do any and all other front end parts while you're in there that might be questionable.

RwP
 

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One tip on the passanger side is to disconnect the wire harness from the strut tower. That will give you pleanty of room to get to the back bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok thanx guys. I appreciate the help. lol It's too bad I have fat hands and little patience. :tongue: And yes I am replacing everything in the front end. Inner and outer tie rods, Upper and Lower control arms. I might even make new sub assembly braces.

So now I have one more question. The lower control arms come with all of the bushings except for one. The one that is missing is right by the ball joint. What is that called? And does any one have idea how much they cost? Thanx for the help:D
 

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Actually there's 2 bushings there for the strut rod. I think when you buy the parts you refer to them as the strut rod bushings, control arm side. There's a front and a rear.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah I know there is a bushing on the front and back side of the control arm. Do those come as a set or will I have to order them separate?
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Discussion Starter #14
Time for another question. I have everything back together except for one part (I also decided not to do the uppers. I will do them when I do my shocks and springs.) I can't tighten down the lower ball joint on the driver's side because the ball joint spins when I turn the nut. The impact won't do it either. Any suggestions?
 

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Time for another question. I have everything back together except for one part (I also decided not to do the uppers. I will do them when I do my shocks and springs.) I can't tighten down the lower ball joint on the driver's side because the ball joint spins when I turn the nut. The impact won't do it either. Any suggestions?
Jack under the control arm / ball joint to push the stub up tight into spindle.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok I'm about to take a hammer to the cougar. I have everything done except for the driver side lower ball joint. I can't get that nut to tighten up. I tried pistol's suggestion and it got it closer, but not all the way. Now I can't even back the nut up. I am at a total loss. Please help!
 

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Try a clamp or hitting it in farther, does it appear to be seated enough to get started without spinning? Also the ball joint might not fit right from the hole being rusted, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I ended up jacking up the threads on the ball joint while trying to turn it. So, I just took it back to Advanced Auto and told them it came out of the box that way. Problem solved. The car is on its way to an alignment tomorrow.

However, I did get to play the other fun game that I love. I call it "Guess What Else is Broken!" So when I got under there to work on the passenger side, I found that the tie rod end was broken. This work should make a big difference in the way the car handles. I'm excited.
 

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The uppers are really easy, just time consuming due to the back side nuts. Took me two hours for the first side, then an hour for the other due to practice.

It's worth your time to get them all done at the same time.
 

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a swivel handle ratchet goes a long way on the inside of the fender well. And I concur an 18mm gear wrench is the only way to go on the engine bay side.
 
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