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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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There's still a dead Imaginary Ex-Girlfriend out there...
Don't leave her in the trunk too long; that causes problems...

:D

This is a cool mod, and very worthwhile. :thumbsup:

...but I'm going to use the 98 ones I have.

When I get done, I'll post up the mod, and the circuitry.

Heck, you did some of the work, thinking about it. :) (EDIT: No, I'm thinking of someone else. IAVO, lol.)

Hmmm... Would the version you have in mind fit the plastic imrcs? They have less thermal conductivity, and still fit the Cobra intake, just not the early mark one.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
The same Vaccuum Switches, etc. for same things are on the 96 Driver Cam Cover as 93,94,95.

An original 1996 IMRC depresses 2 LB Spring at 5 or 6 HG on Bench.

V6 IMRC depress 5 LB Spring at 7 or 8 HG on Bench.

When installed both easily move the Runner Arm to Stop before 10HG which meets the criteria for Bench Test of a good set of "free" IMRC Runners in Factory Manual @ 03-12-14.

Another Manual Adjustment @ 03-12-14 for Adjusting Stops uses 12-20 HG - I see no need to readjust stops unless you are dissasembling & Re-assembling Intake & Runners & changing relationships between them.

Per above no additional "counter spring" wias needed whatsoever although there is perfect notch on Runner Arm for one.

Found today starting on Driver Side that it will take 2 Each Napa PN 6002660 RH (Right Hand) V6 Actuators as the Left Hand V6 Actuator Napa PN 6002661 with Offset Crook in Actuator Arm won't fit on either side due to Electrical & Vaccuum Connector interference problems with other components - Those Connector orientations differ fm RH to LH V6 Actuators.

So you need 2 each Napa PN 6002660, great pix on their site.

MKVIII IMRC's are 1 & 7/8 OD - V6 Actuators are 2 & 3/16 OD but they fit.

It's gonna take some V6 Connectors to hook up Sensors on a 96 - On a 93,94,95 you have no Sensor Switch in your old IMRC's so you could cut Electrical Connector off V6 Actuator easily the way these are made.

But you don't need a CEL to tell you that IMRC's are dead, (one leaking would kill both as both IMRC Vaccuum Lines Y together in front of Throttle Body) - You quickly notice that it does'nt go APE#### at 3000 RPM anymore ~!

- The V6 Actuator may be more robust than the MKVII Actuator - It's 5/16 bigger O.D. so V6 Diaphragm is 5/16 inch bigger OD than MKVIII Diaphragm which probably explains why it can compress heavier Return Spring at similar amounts of Vaccuum / HG with it's larger Diaphragm Area - Longer Arm on V6 Actuator also lessens angle thrown at Diaphragm as Runner Arm travels it's Arc.

Driver side IMRC now done along with Passenger side IMRC - MUCH more fun to dissassemble a MKVIII Vaccuum IMRC with a Makita Angle Grinder vice some Screwdrivers - 2nd one went much quicker of course, just an hour or 2 max - It's a tight fit at Outside Diameter of V6 IMRC to the Throttle Cable bracket but it clears - added more pix at my TCCOA.COM Gallery - I would suggest replacing TPS & IAC as I did while you have the TB out for easier access.

- Runs like a scalded ape again... biggest difference from seat of pants is in Low End, pulls very well at even 33MPH in OD - & Of course a nicer growl around 3K+ RPM's ~!

- Still need some Male Electrical Connectors fm a Windstar or whatever for splice at existing IMRC Wiring to V6 IMRC's being MK VIII IMRC's were hard wired at IMRC.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Yeah they "upgraded" the damn Site & deleted my Gallery pix - My copy of pix were lost when that PC died - Below best I got fm when I fixed the 3 way Vac tee Off EGR - My 96 still runs like scalded Ape with 210k miles - Here's what I did - U will note that the Spring is heavier in the V6 actuator, thats a good thing - The larger V6 Vacuum Chamber makes up for compressing the heavier Spring - Also the Arm on the V6 Actuator is longer than the Arm on the V8 Actuator (Ford best but there are Dormans) - That ends being perfect too - I cut the Top half off the Vacuum Chamber of the old Actuator & removed the bad guts - Cut SOME of the Bracket off the new Actuator - The Stub of the new Actuator Bracket I rolled into a curve that matched the curve INSIDE the "cup" of the old Vaccuum Actuator (its thick) - U MUST properly orient the position of new actuator to old Bracket Cup so Arm lines up right to lever on Intake - THEN Drill a hole thru side of old Actuator "cup" AND thru the rolled part of new Bracket inside the Cup of old Bracket (its thick) - Tapped the cut new Bracket 1/4-20 & used 1 allen head fastener with RTV as loctite thru old cup into new cur bracket - SO the New Actuator sits securely on TOP of the bottom half of old 'cup" with old Actuator Bracket tucked inside it and u just bolt old bracket back to Intake - BUT the difference in arm length is perfect & make up for new actuator sitting a tad higher & arm lines up perfect - 93-95 IMRC actuators have NO Electrical Connector like the bastard 96 - 96 work perfect without Electrical Connector & throw no code - If u want to hookup Electrical Connector on ur 96 just get Connector that matches ur V6 actuator & splice to ur 96 Harness - If u have any more questions let me know - Buck
 

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Thank you for your help with this Buck. Would you be able to tell me what ford cars those actuators are found in? The markviii.org original thread where this mod was posted is no longer working.
 
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