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Discussion Starter #1
I've seen my temperature gauge run right up next to the red line when I've been driving in traffic. At that point, the air conditioning compressor shuts off. I don't know how hot this corresponds to, but here's what I do know.

I bought an AutoMeter temp gauge, and accidently hooked it up in place of the EECs temperature sensor. I then had to make a 1 hour drive to get home. This allowed me to compare the AutoMeter to the factory gauge. When the factory gauge is half way between the "NORM" and the red line, the AutoMeter was rading about 235 degrees F. Since I've seen the gauge go mostly right up to the red line, how hot do you guys think my car was getting? The interesting thing is, it runs fine even when it's that hot. I figured it would be missing and acting up and shooting water and steam all over the place, but none of that happens. AFAIK, it hasn't discharged any coolant at all because of overheating. How hot are these cars designed to go?

I've put some radiator flush in, and right now with just water and the flush, the car usually runs around 210, unless I drive at high RPM.
 

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If the gauge (autometer) was reading 235 then it was 235 or close. Sounds like you have a sticky thermostat or possibly a clogged radiator. Car probably ran like shat with the EEC temp sender removed as well. If you have a "real" gauge why care what the factory reads. Go by the aftermarket.

Flush the rad, change the thermostat and check to make sure your cooling fans are operating.
 

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When the 95-97 T-Bird coolant temp gauge is in the middle of the NORMAL zone, the actual coolant temp should be around 205 degrees. The maximum limit of the NORMAL range is 250 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is 250 still considered "normal" then? As in, I can drive my car at that temp and there isn't a problem?
 

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If you got the prestone coolant flush...you should have gotten all that out in 10 minutes....like the directions say. Its really not good for the car to run without the antifreeze. The coolant passages and the like will rust within days. Which in turn will cause more harm than good. Its probably a good idea to change your O-rings also. Prestone coolant flush has a reputation for eating up gaskets. I replaced the water pump on a van a few days ago that had a coolant leak and the owners added water all the time. Took me about an hour and a half to get the pump housing and surrounding areas clean of rust. They had run water for only 4 days.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
wkenneth said:
If you got the prestone coolant flush...you should have gotten all that out in 10 minutes....like the directions say. Its really not good for the car to run without the antifreeze. The coolant passages and the like will rust within days. Which in turn will cause more harm than good. Its probably a good idea to change your O-rings also. Prestone coolant flush has a reputation for eating up gaskets. I replaced the water pump on a van a few days ago that had a coolant leak and the owners added water all the time. Took me about an hour and a half to get the pump housing and surrounding areas clean of rust. They had run water for only 4 days.
There were 2 different products at AutoZone for cleaning out the radiator. They had the 10 minuite flush that you were talking about, but I got the one that said "Super Clean" or whatever on it. The directions said to drive it on the highway for 3-6 hours. So far, I've driven about 3 1/2, so, I guess I could go ahead and get it out now.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, mission accoplished. I don't know if it's any better or not. It still gets up to around 235 if I drive for more than 2 minutes at 3,000 RPM. Is that "just the way it is." or should I be trying to see what the problem is? I havn't got a chance to try it out in traffic when the temp here is up over 100...
 
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