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Discussion Starter #1
I just put on a set of PI heads in a 96 NPI motor. Before the swap I don't remember it ever smoking out the tail pipes. But now...

When cold it never smokes. Once hot it will smoke for a second on start up and will also smoke for a second after a good rev up.
I'm thinking valve guide seal? What do you think?
 

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Me thinks you should have replaced the stem seals while the heads were off the car - they are only $20 for a set.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I should have however, these are very clean heads from a low mile car. I'm thinking then machine shop damaged them when they cleaned the heads.

Oh well, guess I will have replace them while there on the car now.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, im not looking forward to doing it while in the car but oh well.
 

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I have replaced a broken valve spring on my 302 by pushing a few feet of nylon rope through the plug hole and rotating the motor over by hand until it held the valve up then just removed and replaced it.You could do the seals that way if you wanted but it would be time consuming.
 

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I have replaced a broken valve spring on my 302 by pushing a few feet of nylon rope through the plug hole and rotating the motor over by hand until it held the valve up then just removed and replaced it.You could do the seals that way if you wanted but it would be time consuming.
Yes, this is exactly how i did mine. I didn't trust the air compressor. Once the piston is at TDC the valve isn't going to drop much anyway. It is pretty fast once you get the hang of it. The pain is taking off the keepers, the poorly designed tool, and putting everything back.
 

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I didn't trust the air compressor. Once the piston is at TDC the valve isn't going to drop much anyway. It is pretty fast once you get the hang of it. The pain is taking off the keepers, the poorly designed tool, and putting everything back.

You dont trust the air compressor - or your valves ?? Crank it up to 80 psi and get to work. You'll know if youre losing compression in a cylinder if its leaking but it will still hold up the valve at 20-30% leakage no problem. Getting the keepers off is easy with a magnet, and the tool by Trickflow isnt half bad - it's the rearmost valves that are tricky and require an extension. Getting the keepers back on, now that was a pain.
 

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I like the rope idea... more peace of mind. I'd never heard of it till this thread.. It seems a good idea to me.
 

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You dont trust the air compressor - or your valves ?? Crank it up to 80 psi and get to work. You'll know if youre losing compression in a cylinder if its leaking but it will still hold up the valve at 20-30% leakage no problem. Getting the keepers off is easy with a magnet, and the tool by Trickflow isnt half bad - it's the rearmost valves that are tricky and require an extension. Getting the keepers back on, now that was a pain.
I've seen a cylinder slam down and take the valve with it, and this was in a shop. You have to be very careful about putting it at TDC. Its probably best to lock the crank bolt. Maybe someone who is very experienced would have the confidence to do it. The rope added 30sec to a minute for me per cylinder.

The OTC tool is horrible, I ended up getting my money back. you need horizontal extensions because the ratchets for pivoting it touch the cam frame. Also, the tool had a hump that probably had to be grinded off. It would interfere with the cam frame. The design was changed for the worse since the 90s. If I did it again I would get the trickflow.

The keepers are easy to replace with a magnetic screwdriver attachment. I don't think I could do it any other way.

Lowes has the correct size nylon rope. I forgot the size but its is a bit less than the diameter of the spark plug hole.
 
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