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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I just joined up. Bought a '95 Thunderbird LX 4.6. It leaked oil, rattled like crazy, trans slipped, and no a/c. All of that is fixed, but there is some oil consumption that seems to come from the valve stem seals. (you know, that blue smoke you get when you pull away from the traffic lights?)


Yes, I am planning to do the valve stem seals. I have done this before on other cars, from Dodge vans, to OHC Nissan cars. Car has 145,000 miles; I figure they are probably due. That is approximately when I did the seals on the Nissan I had.

Now, the cheapest valve spring compressor I can find is $85. (on-car, of course, uses breaker bar).
I will be set up with air compressor and fitting for spark plug hole. Is there anything I need to know, out of the ordinary? I know I will have to clean all the sand out of the spark plug holes in the valve covers before pulling plugs, as there is Florida sand all over the engine.
Also, does anyone know if the intake tract unbolts from the intake manifold on the '95 4.6, like they seem to on later 4.6? I am looking get clearance to also remove the EGR valve so I can inspect/clean/replace it, if necessary (low EGR flow code) while I have the air ducting off.
Thanks for any heads up answers you can leave me! (like the cost of new valve stem seals, which are the best? Ford? Aftermarket?)
Mark
 

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The Band, not the Disease!
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OEM Valve stem seals are dirt cheap. Buy 16 of em and you will be set. Make sure you have good compression on all of the cylinders, so you don't drop a valve in the chamber.. that would suck =P the intake is a 1 piece, and with that out, the EGR is right infront of you, so that would be an excellent time to do the EGR tube and valve. I guarantee the valve stems are letting oil go to the chambers, mine are going too. Good luck =)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool, that sounds good. Dirt cheap, eh? Well, at least I don't have to buy 32 of them this time around lol. (actually, be nice if I did have to!)

I was hoping I would not have to remove the intake manifold because of all the extra work involved. Is there a trick to working on the EGR valve and it's exhaust tube? I am trying to save time, so if there is a special tool or something that would help me, let me know! (I still have the factory aluminum intake manifold)
Also, I assume the exhaust and intake seals are the same, as most vehicles are?

Mark
 

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I am no expert, but I have removed my EGR before on my 94 (same as 95). Only thing I recommend to speed things along is to remove the entire windshield wiper cowling. That way you can get your hand behind the intake and blindly (yes, blindly) feel the two 10mm bolts holing the EGR to the intake manifold. then with a 1/4 socket wrench, carefully remove the bolts (don't drop 'em) and the EGR will be loose from the intake. As far as replacing it, you may have to fully remove the intake to gain enough working room. I deleted mine all together so I am not 100% on how hard it is to replace. Hope that helps!

Shane
 
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