TCCoA Forums banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
well i am thinking of doing the j/mod on my 97 xr7. the car has 111,000 miles on it. would you recomend doing this? or should i try to find a new or rebuilt 4r70w first and swap it in( of course doign the j/mod before install)? i know i need the frpp rear LSD differential as well. Thinking on 4.10's to go in, or will 3.73's be enough? the j mod looks somewhat intimidating. is it hard to do? or does it just look worse than it is? and any recomendations on torgue converters such as what rpm, lock up, non lock up? i figure before i work on the engine i should go ahead and do all the maintenance and upgrades to the drive train itself. thanks for the help guys.:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,205 Posts
If your tranny is still in good working order, I say go for it. It's not a cure for an ailing transmission though, so if there any problems, it could speed up it's demise, but if it shifts well, and has no slipping, I'd go for it. As far as it being intimidating, you'll be surprised when you pull the pan off, get drenched in tranny fluid, and realize exactly how easy it really is, just follow the directions.

As far as gears and stall go, it really depends on what you want to do with the car. If you drive a lot on the highway, go 3.73's. City driving, and racecar, go with 4.10's. The stall depends on the amount of modifications you plan to do, but the Mark VIII 2400 stall works well for most mildly modified cars. If you do get a custom aftermarket stall, DO NOT get a non-lockup converter. You want the lockup function in 3rd and 4th, because it reduces heat, from the converter not slipping the entire time you are going down the highway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
222 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
there is a little, very little shudder when it shifts from 2-3 under light throttle. wide open the trans is great. eventually the engine might see 400+ hp, but not for a while. should i still j/mod for this or ofr 300 and do the j mod later if need be? also, i have seen 4R70W's on ebay for 500-700$. should i look into these, or hang on till hte on i got dies? i think i will be fine, but will more power destroy what i have? right now i plan on swapping to a 4.10 or 3.73 pumpkin, do the j/mod, 300 stall t/c ( thereabouts ) and then PI swap and basic boltons.
 

·
Amateur Expert
Joined
·
1,662 Posts
I just recently did the VB mod on my '97 T-Bird. I had already added a cooler and updated the 1-2 spring and accumulator piston. I have 105K on the motor and have had no trans or motor related problems. In the future I plan to add a MK 8 or similar converter in addition to the other mods. I also have done the PI cylinder headswap, so I have already added a good 50rwhp load onto the trans. I don't see a problem in doing the VB mod at your mileage assuming the trans is healthy. I would suggest a trans cooler if you don't have one already.

Doing the actual mod itself is not too hard. I printed out the article and read it many times, so I would have good knowledge when I was disassembling. As with anything, the first time you drop the pan and VB it will be confusing and take longer than you thought. I also had a friend with me that had done it before, and that helped a great deal. I used the mildest setting when drilling the seperator plate and I am still not chirping the tires from 1-2, but I have very wide rubber.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top