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I didn't want to wait for the Ford one so I ordered dorman/motormite 615-098.1. I did some front end work - decided to pop in ball joints and noticed a raspy wheel hub.

This is a 1 piece dull bronze beauty is made in China. It is also $5 vs the $20 or so from Ford (local or shipped).

Well, I thread about 3/4 of the nut on the spindle ( so its not a crossthread issue), and then I pull out my digital torque adapter to get it to the 150 ft/lb step before the big torque wrench. I notice some resistance, thats great, the retaining feature is there, then I realize that the prevailing torque is skyrocketing - close to 90 ft lbs and the end of the spindle isn't even showing!

I realize at this point I have a big problem, because I notice some shavings at the end of the nut. I started backing off the nut and it was REALLY hard to get out. I got it out, and there were shavings in the hub (hopefully they didn't enter the races) and the threads on the spindle are somewhat damaged. The spindle was very hot after removing the nut. Probably if I went a bit further the spindle would have been destroyed.

I ended up reusing the old Ford nut (because it was in pristine condition) and a few shops here told me they do it all the time. I also used red locktite. There was damage to the spindle threads, but I was able to put the ford nut back and it had good prevailing torque. I am going to check it over the next few days to see if it holds. Ideally the knuckle should probably be replaced.

I guess they overcrimped the end of that nut - and that caused the damage. The threads at the top of the nut are practically gone.

This shows how risky aftermaket products are...This nut crosses with new Mustangs that are still sitting on the dealer lot and all Panthers.....so buyer beware!
 

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+1 on re-using the stock nut with a lil loctite! I will try to remember to stay away from those. I had a similar problem once with a reman axle nut. The one that came with it screwed up the threads, so I filed them back into decent shape and re-used the stock one.
 

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easy fix to use Dorman Spindle/axle nuts without fear of damaging threads on front spindles/rear halfshafts: use a big-a&^ M24 x 2.0 tap.





Ran it once from the flange side-to-out, and from the outside-to-flange side, and they go on smooth like butter. Got that tap on Ebay for $13.
 

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I bought some of these when I did my mark update on Lazarus.

I just thought they were defective, and returned them to Advanced.

I thought the whole reason for the crimp was to make it impossible to get off, until I noticed the spindle damage.
If it's re-turning my freaking spindle to a new shape, I Do Not Want!!

I reused my factory bolts with red locktite also.

I may replace these 10 more times, best case. :) I want that spindle to still be there.

3-5 years a set; ok, maybe 5 more times, lol.

Amazing how the factory ones lasted 15 years or so, right? :)
 

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I just put some new spindle nuts on my. I need to check my spindles now. I saw the last thread was crimped and they were hard to screw on but I used an impact gun so I am not sure how hard they were to screw on
 

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worse comes to worse, just get a M24 x 2.0 die and you can get the threads back in shape. Then you can either buy a tap like I did and clean out the nuts, or send them to me and I'll do it for free. Now that I ran the tap through mine, I have no use for it, LOL.
 

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I just put some new spindle nuts on my. I need to check my spindles now. I saw the last thread was crimped and they were hard to screw on but I used an impact gun so I am not sure how hard they were to screw on
...Which is why you don't use Air tools for suspension parts...

Did you check the torque, or just go by the gun?
 

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Wouldn't running a tap through the new ones be just the same as reusing the old nuts? I foung a pair of new ford spindle nuts at the dealer, they were expensive at 18$ each though. Took few days to get them in.
 

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Wouldn't running a tap through the new ones be just the same as reusing the old nuts? I foung a pair of new ford spindle nuts at the dealer, they were expensive at 18$ each though. Took few days to get them in.
Sorry, never saw this reply. Not sure exactly what you mean. Running the tap through the new ones just gets rid of the area pinched-in at the outside end----it is very very very little material that gets removed from the threads. This way there is no risk of the Dorman nut chewing up the threads on an otherwise perfectly good spindle, and you can also get the appropriate amount of torque on it, just like the stock caged nuts. Also, they'd be infinitely re-useable, since they're not multi-piece like the Ford ones.
 

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I was just wondering how tapping out a new one time use spindle nut, would be any better then reusing the OEM nuts?

Just going to reuse the OEM nuts in the future here. They felt exactly the same torquing them up to speck as the old ones I had. Maybe a drop of red loctite would be in order.

I think it was a waste of 40$ buying new ones
 

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Since the OEM part is still available by Ford, and not grossly overpriced, why not just order them from the dealership and get the right ones? Then you don't have to waste time "fixing" a cheap part?
 

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I was just wondering how tapping out a new one time use spindle nut, would be any better then reusing the OEM nuts?
Well that's where we disagree. I don't think of them as "one-time use". :)
 
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