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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, i recently took out my sub box and everything in the trunk including spare, jack, various stuff....total weight gone is roughly 90lbs(bathrooms scale..haha)..the sub box itself weighed 70 or so, and honestly i'm sick of bass..gonna sell them to a friend. All that's in the trunk is 1 quart oil and fix a flat..lol.:tongue:

Now i know the back seat cushion weighs nothing (the one you sit on) but is the actual back cusion heavy..? Is there much to get rid of from the front seats back etc..? I want to keep only my 2 front seats, i know they are heavy, like 50lbs each but i like the comfort...for now.:D

If you have any experiance gutting the back cabin of a 95 tbird please feel free to tell me what can go, and whats heavy.....i'm not gonna do anything like get a light hood just to save 15lbs...just wanna get rid of what's in her now. Thanks.

BTW she pulls ever so slightly better from a stop without the heavy sub box and misc stuff....and i lose traction MUCH easier taking a slow 90 degree turn...YAY..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks alot guys, yeah btw i'm not gonna go nuts like getting rid of the ac, door panels, etc etc etc.. I just want to get rid of whatever i can...and not make it look like a total stripped drag car, after all this will be my mother car when i get my 5.0 fox (she needs a car)..

Thanks again.
 

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An aluminum engine block works great too ;)

Pete
 

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An aluminum block saves nearly 90 lbs off the front end, and it sure does make a difference. The plus of an aluminum block is the cheapest way is PI swap and PI swap is a VERY nice improvement, especially from a pre 96 NPI
 

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Sheepish
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If you choose to remove the rear seat, whatever you do, leave the v-brace thats behind the rear seat back. Thats a structural component, as well as the back glass. If you remove the v-brace, nearly every load you apply to the rear suspension will be transferred through the shock mounts and flex the back half of the car. Without that brace, your back glass is the only thing to keep that back end from flexing to mexico and back...
 

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Additionally, the aluminum block really really does make the front end lighter and improves steering. It makes the car feel really sporty, so two gains with one change.

Pete
 

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Of course it would be nice to replace that ultra heavy engine cradle; that damn thing (I KNOW this for a fact) is over 250lbs and if you can get a tubular one in Cromemoly, not only will you gain space, and be able to lower and set the engine rearward, but you will probably lose 150lbs from the nose of the car, get better handleing, something alot stiffer.

do they make a tubular cradle for a 94 cougar? or will one from a mustang fit?
 

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The Parts Guy
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blk94cat said:
Of course it would be nice to replace that ultra heavy engine cradle; that damn thing (I KNOW this for a fact) is over 250lbs and if you can get a tubular one in Cromemoly, not only will you gain space, and be able to lower and set the engine rearward, but you will probably lose 150lbs from the nose of the car, get better handleing, something alot stiffer.

do they make a tubular cradle for a 94 cougar? or will one from a mustang fit?
Please don't post false information. The stock engine K-member doesn't weigh "over 250lbs". I weighed one here at the shop with the lower control arms still attached, and it came to 82lbs.

AJE does make a tubular K-member for MN12's, however most have chosen not to go that route, as it is rather expensive.

-Rod
 

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Not to mention the fact that tubular K-member has 90 degree welds with no truss or gusseting to help strengthen the welds. It's an engineering nightmare that will fatigue. Personally, I wouldn't use it for anything other than a track car because of the geometry involved.

Pete
 

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racecougar said:
Please don't post false information. The stock engine K-member doesn't weigh "over 250lbs". I weighed one here at the shop with the lower control arms still attached, and it came to 82lbs.

AJE does make a tubular K-member for MN12's, however most have chosen not to go that route, as it is rather expensive.

-Rod

i got that quote off the site in the #2 post in this thread. i have never weighed the K-member, i was going by what it said in the link the other person linked it to. and if thats all it weighs then i'll leave it alone.
 

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How about remove the front passenger seat, and have them sit in the back? More room for hauling stuff. I always thought that would be fun to do. Easy to replace it, as well. I've done it before, temporarily. Also have removed the back seat. My V-brace was cracked, so I just took it out since there was no point in keeping it there.
 

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Baddest N/A NPI in Canada
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93pimpin said:
How about remove the front passenger seat, and have them sit in the back? More room for hauling stuff. I always thought that would be fun to do. Easy to replace it, as well. I've done it before, temporarily. Also have removed the back seat. My V-brace was cracked, so I just took it out since there was no point in keeping it there.
You could lose a few pounds by going with an aftermarket hood, aluminum differential and one piece aluminum drive shaft.
 

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PostSlut
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I've taken a few things out since I weighed last time.

I'll weigh the car again, when I go to the track on the 25th.

I'm hoping to be under 3000 with me out of the car.
 

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does anyone make a fiber hood in the stock 96-97 style?
 

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Baddest N/A NPI in Canada
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95_SilverBird said:
does anyone make a fiber hood in the stock 96-97 style?
VFN
 

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VFN says the stock style pin on hood weighs 12 pounds and the stock style bolt on hood weighs 23 pounds. Not sure about the weight for the cowl hoods or a stock hood.
 

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thanks
 
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