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Discussion Starter #1
Yup, happened to me to, at about 145k. Picked up a fel-pro kit and starting tearing the sucker down today. Didn't make much headway, only managed to pull the upper intake, p/s pump, and ac compressor. A few questions:

1.) Oops, I forgot to relieve the fuel pressure. I thought there was a valve that would let me do it without starting the car (schroeder valve or something like that.) Starting the car was something I didn't wanna do anyways, since the crankcase is contaminated. Will I kill myself and my buddy if I pull the fuel rail assembly with pressure in the lines? Are we talking lethal pressure, or will it just make a huge mess? I can deal with a mess.

2) On a related note, where is the best place to hang the fuel rails so they are out of the way?

3) Is it even possible to pull the exhaust manifold on the passenger side? Garr.. maybe it's time for an AC delete, never use the thing anyways.

4) Any general tips for getting the wire harness/hoses out of the way? Our biggest problem has been the immense amount of clutter in the engine well.

5) Also, is there a way to remove the fan shroud without pulling the fan?

I just want another 10k miles out of this car. That's all.. please, at least last long enough so I can get a beater.

Anyways, I'm sure i'll have a million more questions. Thanks in advance for your help.
 

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Hi there I am sorry to hear you have joined the HG club haha.


1) There is a valve that will let you relieve the pressure, It looks like a valve stem from a tire. It is located on the passenger side of the fuel rail. The pressure is not enough to kill you, but I would wear some protective glasses just to be sure it doesn't squirt in your eyes! =)

2) When I took my fuel rail off I laid it down in the trunk with the injectors sticking up. You could probably hang it on two nails on the metal railing part of it.

3) Yes, but let me warn you, it IS hard. It is the most time consuming part of the job. (Or at least it was for me) Just wait until you have to put it back on. :tongue:

4) I disconnected all coolant hoses and let the wires hang down to the bottom of the engine. I had to bungee cord the A/C compressor so it wouldn't fall and snap the line. :rolleyes:

5) No, I was also afraid that the task was going to be a pain, but it was surprisingly easy! Just remove the four bolts holding the fan on and lift the shroud and fan out at the same time. =)

Hope this helps!
 

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I left my fuel rail attached and wrapped it with rags and just flopped it over and let ir hang over the passenger fender when I needed it out of the way. BUT after that experience I would would remove it from the fuel lines with the tools (which I have now and have used a bunch).

It wasn't that hard to do. I would do a HG replacement again before I would think about doing the heater core. When mine went I couldn't take time off from work, and was working 12 hour days, so I put in 2 to 3 hours a night for a week and finished it up in 3 hours on the weekend, and half the time each night was trying to remember where I was and get my tools back out.

It has been too many years to remember the specifics. I didn't want to do it until I got quotes of 800 to 1200 to do it, then I suddenly wanted to do it. I know why it is expensive to do, but there really isn't any one thing that is hard, just time consuming. I didn't have the heads checked and I wish I would have, and I didn't replace the valve seals, and I wish I would have. I expected to get another 15k out of the car and dump it, that was 50k miles ago, and if it wasn't down because of the heater core, I would be driving it more.
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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i hope you are keeping track of all your fasteners. to answer questions;

1 - i use an allen wrench that will fit the i.d. of that valve, ball up a paper towel and wrap it around the valve and push down on the wrench a few times. the towel will soak up the fuel. you may have to keep pushing a few more times to relieve the majority of the pressure.

2 - wrap an old towel around the fuel rail to protect your paint, then hang it over the fender.

3 - wd40 and a long breaker bar.

5 - remove the radiator and slide the shroud back, and you have easier access to the clutch fan bolts. have fun bolting the fan and water pump pulley back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes, if I have done anything right thus far, it has been labelling all my connectors and putting my fasteners in labelled sandwich bags!

Okay, that's good that there's a fuel pressure relief valve. Before I posted, I actually saw the valve you were talking about, and tried the very same thing you suggested (balled up rag, something to stick inside) but it didn't work, and I gave up because I didn't wanna force it. I'll try again tomorrow.

Is there a similar way to bleed the refrigerant? It looks like i'll be pulling those hoses out of the way. It's the only way I can even see to tackle the passenger side.

Also, do I have to fully remove the exhaust manifolds, or once unbolted can they be pulled back some to allow room to get to the head?

Thanks for the replies thus far, and sorry for the newbish sounding questions. I know alot about engines, but actually lack hands on experience with them.
 

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Motorboatin' SOB, Headlight Cleaning Guru
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you dont need to depressurize the a/c system. just unbolt the compressor and let it hang aside with the hoses attached.

you can pull the heads with the manifolds attached, but it may be tricky to manuever the collector to mate up with the cats and line up the heads with the dowel pins sticking out of the block at the same time.
 
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