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Discussion Starter #1
pretty pretty pi heads. finally mine. picking them up from the ups location tomorrow. is there any easy (well not "easy" lets say "moderatly complicated/safe") ways to use a dremill to cut anything off that might gain me anything or is it best to leave it alone and send it off to a pnp shop to have it done by the pros?
 

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If you have never ported or polished a head, I'd at least go find a set of trashed heads to practice on the first time.

You are more likely to make them a yard ornament than improve the flow, on the first set. (Later sets too, depending on ability, lol)

Things that seem great when you are doing them bite hard later...and there are some thin spots.

See if you can find someone to do it, IMHO. It's cheaper in the long run.

I learned to port/polish on dirt bikes; much cheaper learning curve...and I'm not taking a dremel to my new heads; I don't know the castings; like, where are the coolant passages, oil, etc.

I'd love to see a good book on the subject of our heads, tho...
 

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honestly unless you have a flow bench, which you don't, than leave it to the pros, there are really only a few places to port on pi heads and porting to much and they don't flow right, they flow really odd, porting not enough and you see no gains, un even porting and you get un even burns in the chambers, probably not drastic enough to harm your engine but still its not worth the risk, you want all 8 chambers flowing the same amount of cfm. Just my $0.02.

Although if you want to do a really light gasket match go for it, but leave the intake ports rough and try to smooth the exhaust ports as much as you can.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok i got them. sadly i have never seen such a horrid packing job. the cam retainer cap beat a hole in the box and then proceded to beat against anything that got in its way. its corner has been beaten down about an 1/8 of and inch, what does anyone think about that? should i swap my retainers from my nonpi heads? should i get these heads machined? the cams turn and all but i feel an aline hone is in order, dont want to take that risk. no worries about the cams, i fully intend to replace them now, im not gonna take that risk either. also there is a bolt for the exhaust manifold busted off so it is already going to see some shop time might as well have em portnpolish it. damnit im so pissy right now i could sh*t a bat.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
ok working on posting pics
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http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo24/26/15/07e51d373c86.jpg?_rh=1sc534lrrt4wf2c7qa5xhqsj3

http://www.t-mobilepictures.com/photos/photo11/0d/87/d129a8190fb3.jpg?_rh=775iewx4cnz0fh5mm496tc31o

ok sorry about the crummy pic there i had to use my phone, you can see the dent on the right side corner of the retainer and the shiney parts of the bolts are where they are rounded, the pic of the box is how it was when i picked it up. open.

ok so i have surveyed these things now. both cams turn with expectable force. and no i did not forget to put assembly lube on the cam lobes before messing around like that... the bolts to the exhuast manifold broke off before removal there is carbon build all over the outside of the head. the truck it came off of had improperly gaped plugs with resulted in a incomplete burn problem on most of the cylinders, lots of build up on the plugs... thats not my problem i guess lol. my ruler says they are in great shape for truness of deck. little less than a sheet of xerox paper out of flat. dont have any feeler gauges handy... i would say thats damn good right? havent leak tested the valves yet but my guess is they look pretty good. i might be able to just clean these and thro them on. they are 5.4 heads, im not sure if there is anything special i have to do to get these to work...

im kinda torn, part of me wants to through it all on and call 250 hp good but part of me wants to do mild to middle range cams and port n polish, what would that get me? ive also made up my mind that i will get headers, are shorties worth it or should i spring for the 3/4 lengths?
 

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Here are some pics of the work I do to them. The intake is raised 0.15" at the maximum, and the exhaust is opened up quite a bit in the bowl and guide boss area. The swirl dam is layed back a little bit for the high lift flow, the testing I did at SCT showed it didn't affect the timing appreciably. I have been working heads for a few years to get to this level. They are similar to Patriot Stage 2 except these don't have the nasty ridge from the CNC and I don't remove the swirl dams completely. I also use bronze guides and 0.5 mm oversized valves as the stock stuff is so so.







 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok you speak as if this is something you DO? im intrigued. what do you charge? i would love to send these out to someone on this forum instead of joe schmuk on just-me-and-my-dremel-and-a-few-white-lies.com or wherever else i might find. rochester mn (where i live) is like a huge small town. nothing at all.
 

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Sending a PM on the pricing, its cheaper than most anywhere else. I have a near complete head shop in my garage, I only do it on the side a couple pairs a month max to pay for my hotrod illness.
 
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