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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone tell me the wattage of the standard 924 Bulb thats fitted to the 3rd brake light?

I've been reading about the issues with the heat from the standard bulbs melting the bulb holders and have just bought some 16W bulbs (as that was all I could get hold of), but I don't know how they compare to the standard bulbs.
 

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It is nice
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921 lightbulb is the one for there as of the slyvania website and is about 18W. Your'e better off going with a 912 as its lower wattage like 13W less chance of melting the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My 16W bulbs would save me 4W of heat overall then. Hmmm.
 

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PostSkank
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921 lightbulb is the one for there as of the slyvania website and is about 18W. Your'e better off going with a 912 as its lower wattage like 13W less chance of melting the housing.
I believe that's the route I went. My original housing was melted pretty badly, had to replace the whole thing. Thumbs up to the lower wattage bulbs.
 

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Refrigerator Raider Hater
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Mine were melting the holders, and the top of the housing. It had sagged 1/4". I'm surprised I haven't heard of them starting a fire.

I would put in LEDs, almost zero heat. I have a 3rd light in my spoiler, so I deleted mine completely.
 

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i deleted my 3rd brake light and route it to my led thunderbird logo, so when my parking lights are on just the two side rear lights are on, when i hit my brakes the tbird logos light up as well as my side brake lights... its very different, i have yet to see or hear of anyone else do that mod but me
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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I used #168 bulbs in my 3rd brake light assembly.

Did not add any ventilation holes, and they work just fine. No more melting.

Also, check your overhead map lights, if you have them.

Mine were melted worse than the 3rd brake light.

Use the same #168 bulb in these too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Why not build a led tbl? I used lumiled superflux leds - red - 70 degree angle - 60ma. This pic is without the lens cover on. It will look better if you clear the lens before putting it back together, or you can just spray paint the board and resistors, then set the leds and be done.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That does look pretty cool. Is the std lamp housing easy to get out? I haven't investigated that yet.
 

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That does look pretty cool. Is the std lamp housing easy to get out? I haven't investigated that yet.
Its easy to remover from the car.... but to seperate the lens form the housing is not too hard. I just dremeled the lens apart. Use it on a slow speed and take your time because the housing will melt easily. You don't want it to melt and deform.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sounds like a good idea, I'll have to have a think about that. I'd have to get a dremel, but that's not a problem. They look like useful things to have whether I end up doing the conversion or not.
 

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A dremel is the best single tool I've bought! In all honesty it's not a dremel...it's the black and decker dremel knock-off. But all the dremel bits fit in it. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions about it!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
OK, thanks.
 

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Pedal Faster
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While we're on this subject, I have been thinking of making an LED panel like that, and adding a digital module that will flash the leds 10 or 15 times very rapidly when you first step on the brake, and then go solid after that. I think that'd really add visibility and would especially be good in panic stop situations when you think, "Gee, that dude behind me really isn't going to look up, is he?"

Anyone know of any legal issues with that?
 

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They have that for motorcycles. I saw one on a car once years ago in Atlanta, but don't know of any legal issues pro or con. The law might see it as distracting to other motorists though. Maybe if it flashed a few times, once every second for three seconds. That might work as far as the law is concerned. Mimic a motorcycles stop light.

As far as building the curcuit, I'm still new to curcuits with timers and such.
 
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