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Discussion Starter #1
I was half expecting to see a sticky that listed what cars came ith what gears. was just wondering if i could pick up a stock pumpkin from the bone yard with a bigger rear gear. i don't wanna go too wild and i figured that a stock deal would be cheaper than having my local tranny shop put a new one in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ah, and i suppose there's no telling what mine has unless i crawl up under and get the tag code?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
lol. does the pumpkin have a tag code or will it say straight out? 3.27 sounds good to me! especially after i install a higher stall speed t.c. i don't wanna lose too much highway economy!
 

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It's also located on the door tag under AX



the Axle codes are

Conventional / Locking
8 -------------------- M 2.73
Y ---------------------Z 3.08
F ---------------------R 3.45
5 ---------------------E 3.27
6 ---------------------W 3.73

Some of these code's don't apply to certain years


mine in the picture above is E for 3.27 track-lock differential
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok, checked mine and it's axle code Y. now time to find an axle code E pumpkin complete and ready to bolt in.
 

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bah....get 3.73's in a rebuilt track-lok. You'll be MUCH happier than with the 3.27s.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If i went that route i wouldn't dare go over 3.55's.
 

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Why would you stop at 3.55's and not go up just one more notch to the 3.73's :confused:

Either way their both WAY better than the 3.27's. IMO going from 3.08 to 3.27 is a waste of time.
 

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Why would you stop at 3.55's and not go up just one more notch to the 3.73's :confused:

Either way their both WAY better than the 3.27's. IMO going from 3.08 to 3.27 is a waste of time.
I kept the 3.27 Track-lok in my car only because it came with it.
It has a nice amount of pep and OK economy for a 5.0.
But If I originally had 3.08's or less I would have defiantly put in 3.73's

If I find a complete Track-lok unit with 3.55's or 3.73's cheep, I might just swap them out one day.
 

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So I shouldn't go 3.27 from my 2.73?
 

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So I shouldn't go 3.27 from my 2.73?
3.27's from 2.73's would make a noticeable difference in acceleration and still get fairly decent mileage.

Just don't forget to change the speedometer gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
eh, i don't want any more hassle back there than yanking the axles, switching pumpkins, and putting axles back in. i'm gonna hav enough headaches everywhere else to worry about. so far, it doesn't even look like i'm gonna find a 3.27 trac- lok pumpkin.
 

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If I go 4.30's I wouldn't be able to afford the gas to make it home.

LOL
I was thinking the same thing. Ha.

3.27's from 2.73's would make a noticeable difference in acceleration and still get fairly decent mileage.

Just don't forget to change the speedometer gear.
Good point. I know where one is. I need to go get the gear. I already pulled the pumpkin.

eh, i don't want any more hassle back there than yanking the axles, switching pumpkins, and putting axles back in. i'm gonna hav enough headaches everywhere else to worry about. so far, it doesn't even look like i'm gonna find a 3.27 trac- lok pumpkin.
The Big E had one for sale quite recently for a good price too.
 

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i went from 3.27 to 3.73...great difference but now i wish i went higher...4.30s are on the works
 

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I went from 3.73 back to 2.73's for fuel economy. Now I've got a street set-up and a track set-up.
 

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3.27 is as big as our car came with
actually, 3.31 is the steepest gear our cars got, found in the automatic 94/95SCs. Only problem is they all had traction control, so all the 3.31s were open rears, no TL.
 
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