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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just ran some Seafoam through the vac lines 2 days ago. Drove it to Fill up the tank with 93 yesterday and put seafoam in the tank. I never run 93 except for this time. I drove around today for about 20 mins (stop and go, running some errands) and then it started to sputter really bad (kinda like a go-cart/lawnmower...haha). It did it all the way home at lower speeds. Higher speeds, everything seemed fine. I unplugged the maf while the car was running and it still did the same thing. But no codes are thrown.


Does this point to a bad maf (I also tried cleaning the maf and reseting the computer)?

I have a j-chip and put the octane plug in, so I don't think it could be using the different octane. Are there two spots for the octane/timing plug? There are two connectors on my 4.6 that the plug fits into, any ideas why?


Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #2
one other thing..when i turn the car off, after about 5 secs, there is a noise from the rear of the engine, passenger side. It sounds like some kind of release valve opening to let air/pressure out. Any ideas what this is?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If that was the case, wouldn't it have had that problem from the start, not a while after I was driving it. Thanks for the help, I'll go double check.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
gotcha...make sense. I checked and i can hear air coming from the one of the lines i just replaced, but their aren't any cracks. I'm going to replace it today and try it out. Might have stretched it out or something when I pulled the line off to seafoam it.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, well i fixed the leak. Then I drove around for a while and it finally threw a code:
P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent

I know there are a lot of different codes that the MAF can throw, does this one means it needs replaced? (just checking before I go throw money at it). Thanks
 

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not necessarily....you'll have to hook up a voltmeter the MAF output-to-EEC wire, and a chassis ground to see if the signal is behaving the way it should (ie: smooth continuous output from around 0.8V in idle in neutral, and going higher as RPMs go up).....or you could hook up a real-time scanner that can shows MAF A/D counts (around 180 in idle in neutral) if you know anybody that has one

if there are erratic readings (voltage or A/D counts jumping up/down a lot), then it may either be the MAF thats gone bad, or there is a discontinuity within the 4 maf wires somewhere
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey Guitar maestro, the code went away, but I changed the MAF anyways. It runs ok above 2nd gear, but at stop lights, it has the imfamous shudder/bogging problem still. (still putters at very low speeds).
 

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well you need to make sure you have fuel, air, and spark......make sure that all the injectors are working properly....there's a test light called a noid light that you can use.....to check air, well you'll need a real-time scanner that shows the #/min, kg/hr, or MAF A/D counts that indicate the actual airflow that the EEC is seeing......checking the air filter is not enough......as for spark, make sure there is no liquid/moisture in the spark plug wells.....make sure the spark plug wires are good...if there is a miss/studder at idle, then check each spark plug wire, ie: pull each one off one-at-a-time and see if you can get them to short straight to a ground somewhere close by

but the fact that it does this at low-engine speeds still leads me to believe that you have some major vacuum leak, because vacuum leaks disappear as RPMs go up, since the unmetered air thru the leak becomes insignificant compared to the air entering thru the intake
 
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