[ThunderBeast86]

I've decided to wait to play with the aluminum block/B heads...If I install an aluminum block...I'd want it to be forged and ready for war. I have that down to the SB, the heads have been cleaned, and they're sitting around.

I've been battling myself for the longest time...trying to figure out where to start. I've finally got a steady income again, with lots of play money....and I don't know where to go from here. I guess here are the ideas I've been playing with, please tell me when you see a problem/something idiotic I thought of.

To clear any confusion....I will be buying a winter car sometime this summer, so no, this will not be a year-round DD.

1. Buy PI heads/PI intake. Install Comp Cams and Springs, do the complete PI swap. And of course update my tune. Of course....saying I had all the heads/intake together...how long do you guys think it would take for me to finish the swap leaving the block in the car, having a full shop/lifts/air tools/ and two mechanics to help answer questions.

2. Join in on the DirtyDoG TC GP, get my rearend built, have my 1piece aluminum drive shaft built. Then forge the Alum. block, and install the PI heads/Comp Cams/ etc. while it's on an engine stand.

3. I guess fill in the blank...with your own suggestion of how to handle this.

I suppose I could also do all the drivetrain mods this winter, have a stock top end for the summer, and during the winter when it's in the garage, do the PI swap, and play with the alum. block in a later point of my life, as a slow rebuild...

I see that if I do the top end first, I won't have the supporting gears/TC for the cams, that's one problem I view already... keep adding them please.

Sorry for the rant,
I just don't want to rush into anything, or make any mistakes. I'd like all of the experienced member's help and ideas, you guys know a lot more than I do.

 

[Chris_Murder]

By doing the top end swap without the bottom end your pissing money away on gaskets and torque torque yield bolts, of course if you going to be using arp fasteners than you could save money in the long run but you'd have to pull the engine the first and second time you swap the top end, by using new stock torque torque yield bolts you would save time and effort doing the top end swap the first time by leaving the block in the car. Also as you for-saw you wont have the supporting gears or TC for the cams and head swap, also you wont notice as much gains as you could with a stock tune, but I'm sure you don't want to have to dish out lots of money on tunes everytime you do these mods, you can probably get away with it being stock (or whatever tune you have now) and than have lonnie update it with all of your spiffy new parts. Just a few things to kick around you head. Also I'd invest in a different set of cam springs if I were you, I've heard some horror stories about comp cam springs, their cams are fine but there are better out there.

Also the first time you swap your heads I would estimate anywhere from 12 hours to 4 full days depending on how much time you have to actually work on it, how well versed you are on the engine and car, and how many very trusted buddys you have helping.

All in all for very best results do everything at once, but of course if this is not an option than do it how you want.... its your car and you can make it as fast as your wallet allows.

 

[96_LX]

I was in a similar situation when I got my bird, kinda... The stock NPI blew the rings 270 miles after I got the car. I had a few choices:

1. Used tbird engine. (400-600)
2. PI explorer engine (1200)
3. rebuild stock motor(?)
4. ditch the bird.

I definately reccomend a whole stock PI engine swap at the least. But if you have the money, go to your hearts content; I would have had the funding been there.

I convinced my dad to loan me money to get the PI. I would have loved to do cams/headwork/big bore/blower, but I just needed a running car more than huge power. Then the PI motor blew my stock trans. Nevertheless, I am very happy with my decision. Now, my entire drivetrain is solid, the motor is low miles and has plenty of life left, it launches well and and shifts hard and quick. Not extraordinary power but there is definately not a lack of torque. My goal is that when I payoff my debt for my jspec trans/3.73 tru-trak, I will be looking to get a DD so I can go all out with the bird. forged/Cams/big bore to 5.0/blower the whole bit

 

[David_viny]

So wait, are you not going to use the DOHC engine in the garage (sig)?

Here’s my dilemma:

1. Explorer motor, slightly ported heads (by me) and cams/springs.
2. OR Mark VIII motor, prob leave stock MYBEE cobra intake and cams.

I’m def leaning towards the Explorer for money reasons. Everything is so darn expensive for DOHC engines, like cams or any port work to the heads. There’s def more potential for DOHC, but it would take a lot of money to pass a full out PI motor.

Why u going all forged, got some blower/N20 plans?

 

[Casper]

So wait, are you not going to use the DOHC engine in the garage (sig)?

Here’s my dilemma:

1. Explorer motor, slightly ported heads (by me) and cams/springs.
2. OR Mark VIII motor, prob leave stock MYBEE cobra intake and cams.

I’m def leaning towards the Explorer for money reasons. Everything is so darn expensive for DOHC engines, like cams or any port work to the heads. There’s def more potential for DOHC, but it would take a lot of money to pass a full out PI motor.

Why u going all forged, got some blower/N20 plans?

i'm in the same boat with you. got a dohc engine sitting in the garage and then start pricing things, all the cost is skyrokecting by 2 times. then now decide for pi explorer. for the setup i want for dohc, i can buy 2 explorer engine. 1 drop in the bird and another use as a coffee table or backup unit.