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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
While I promised my wife that I would take a little time off before preparing for next years race, that doesn't stop me from doing some research and/or getting some parts ordered.
If you have seen my post about my last lemons race, you might have seen that we lost a wheel and sheared off all 4 wheel studs. WHile this could be blamed on them going loose, I know for a fact that I checked them before the car went out so I want to blame the wheel studs age + prior abuse at tire shops + current abuse as a track car.
http://forums.tccoa.com/26-racing/180730-results-experiences-our-7th-24-hours-lemons-race-tbird.html

Q: What ARP wheel studs do I need?
I know that our tbirds use M12x1.5 lugnuts

I see on Autozone that they use
FRONT = Dorman 610-365.1 / 13.41mm (.527") Knurl, 51.5mm Length (2.03")
REAR = Dorman 610-388.1 / 15.42mm (.607") Knurl, 51mm Length (2")

I don't care about length but matching the knurl is probably important, right?
Also, I'm also not sure if what's quoted above is the knurl diameter or length and I haven't punched a busted stud for inspection yet.

Potential options
The Official ARP Web Site | Wheel Studs & Nuts
https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/moroso-wheel-studs

I also would rather not have to buy a ton more lugnuts as I already have a bunch of spares + the ones on the car. I found some references to

Vic Rattlehead mentions ARP 100-7703 for the rear
Wheel Stud Style Press-in
Thread Size 1/2-20 RH in.
Knurl Diameter (in.) 0.625 in.
Underhead Length (in) 3.500 in.
Knurl Length (in) 0.400 in.
Quick-Start Nose Yes
http://forums.tccoa.com/1351169-post6.html

Paul mentions Moroso 46185 and using 1" lug nuts in 1/2x20 for rear.
http://forums.tccoa.com/14-tires-wheels/113035-where-get-longer-wheel-studs.html#post1351246


Q: Would switching to 1/2 vs M12 bolts really offer me much value (unless that's the only thing available)?

Can someone point me to the ones I should consider buying? My current plan is to replace all wheel studs on the car (2 front + 1 rear + the one I busted since it's a thicker rear axle). My front/rear spares can stick with the old ones.

The other alternatives would be to JUST replace the busted studs on the pulled axle with the dorman studs and reinstall it on the car (to gain back the thicker axle) or do a mustang hub swap (not likely b/c that would entail new/redrilled hubs and 2 sets of new 17" tires/wheels).
NOTE: I dont' have any plans to move to a mustang hub swap soon.
 

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1/2" is 0.7mm bigger, about the thread difference. :)


If ya gotta drill anyway, I'd go for something like this:

NASCAR Speed Studs




That said, these are a bit pricey for 4 wheels. :surprise:

Dorman is cheap, and as you said, they don't have 100k++ of extreme wear.

RA is showing Raybestos studs for slightly more money; if ARP isn't possible, I'd go with the Raybeastos first. :)
 

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If you don't want to drill and do an 1/2-20 stud upgrade use Dorman 610-481 studs for the rear. They have a .609 knurl compared to the M12-1.5 with a .607 knurl. They will press right in.
 
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