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Discussion Starter #1
Soooo......bad PS pump?

Bubbles means there's air in the system, but if there's air in the system, that means there's a leak somewhere. If there's a leak somewhere, then I'm going to have PS fluid leaking out of somewhere. But....there's no PS fluid leaking out of anywhere?

🤷‍♂️

I've asked on the one Honda Accord group I'm in and I'm getting various possibilities as to reasons for what's going on. Some include an internal leak in the rack, a slow leak somewhere in the system, a pocket of air somewhere, debris in the system, or a cracked hose.

Many of these theories are fine and dandy, but a leak, even a slow leak that doesn't have drips on the ground, would show itself in the reservoir with a low PS fluid level, which my Honda's PS reservoir does not have. It's been consistent at the full level.

What says the TCCOA members here regarding what might be happening with my Honda's PS system?

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At the bottom of that reservoir is a screen filter. Over time it gets clogged and doesn’t let full flow into the pump, which cavitates the pump and aerates the fluid. Pull the reservoir out, punch a big hole through that screen in the bottom, and put it back together with fresh fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll do that tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So someone on the Honda group said it might be the seals on the rack went bad. Any truth to that?

I like the PS reservoir theory best here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It was the PS pump.

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Discussion Starter #7
The next problem with my Honda. No Start!!!

Some back story first:

On Saturday I took my Honda in to the stealership for the airbag recall. As part of the procedure, they disconnected the negative terminal from the battery to remove power. Car runs and drives fine Saturday - Tuesday evening. Wednesday morning (yesterday), I go start the car to drive to work and I get no engine start. Electronics and all come up no problem. I hear the fuel pump prime, but that's it in regards to actual ignition system. There's no crank, not even clicking to tell me it's a bad battery issue.

I pop the hood to inspect the terminals knowing that the dealership had to cut power and found the negative terminal to be loose. I couldn't get the terminal to get any tighter as the nut was already pretty chewed up so I buy a new set of terminals. New terminals go on, and I go clamp them on again nice and tight. I go start the car and again, no start. Electronics and all come up no problem. I go re-inspect my terminals, and the positive is still nice and tight. However, the negative terminal is loose again. Like, I can just wiggle it gently and it'll come off no problem.

Now, I suspect a few things here:
  • Loose terminal doesn't allow for proper contact not permitting proper amperage to reach the starter
  • Bad negative terminal post on battery
  • Bad battery (specifically negative post)
  • Bad starter

I did use my multimeter and got a 12.58v reading at the battery. To ensure a good ground, I also tested voltage using a ground on the body. Again, I got 12.58v from the battery so I know that the ground cable is good.

I've heard that hitting the starter with a wrench or hammer would help in troubleshooting the starter. I did so and there was no change. The next thing I'm going to do today after work is take the battery to get tested, and possibly even swap the battery with the one from my wife's car if I need to.

Is there anything else I can try or do to help figure out what's going on here? I absolutely need my car up and running by tonight.

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See if it will start in neutral. Have had issues with a parking paw in the pass with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'll try to start the car in neutral.

But what does the loose negative battery terminal mean?
 

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If the terminal is loose inside the battery housing them I would replace it.IMHO .
 
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Is the post on the battery itself loose? If not, is the terminal able to fully clamp into the post? No reason it should come loose since you haven't driven the car.

Did you check power at the starter? That's where I would look next.
 

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If the negative terminal is loose it may not be fully seated. Try pushing it further down the battery post to get a better bite.

You need to have somebody else strike the starter while you crank for the trick to work. Or verify 12v power at the starter. Then you can trace back the ignition circuit to find out if its something else causing it to not start.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If the terminal is loose inside the battery housing them I would replace it.IMHO .
Is the post on the battery itself loose? If not, is the terminal able to fully clamp into the post? No reason it should come loose since you haven't driven the car.
The post on the battery itself is NOT loose. Only the battery terminal is loose.

Did you check power at the starter? That's where I would look next.
I did not do that. How would I check for that? When attempting to crank the engine only, or at any time? The big copper bolt / cable going to a (positive?) wire and another wire from a pigtail (negative?) on the starter?

If the negative terminal is loose it may not be fully seated. Try pushing it further down the battery post to get a better bite.
I pushed it down as far as it could go and then tightened the bolt that secures the battery terminal to the battery post. It's still loose.

You need to have somebody else strike the starter while you crank for the trick to work. Or verify 12v power at the starter. Then you can trace back the ignition circuit to find out if its something else causing it to not start.
I'll test for power at the starter like I mentioned.
 

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Yeah the battery cable at the starter is the big post - should be hot with battery connected. Starter grounds through the engine block. That smaller wire / harness is your ignition circuit - hot with key in start.
 

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if the terminal is still loose, I'd replace it.

I had a battery that some jackass over- cleaned with a tool that shaves lead from the post and terminal and it was too loose to work. I ran a sheet metal acrew into the gap between them, and it worked until I replaced it a few years later.
 
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First off, that terminal you used is junk. They are notorious for not making good contact between the cables and the terminal where it is crimped down. Get marine terminals. They have a stud sticking up, and then you crimp an eyelet on the end of the cable and bolt it down. Second, if the terminal is tightened all the way, and it is all the way down on the battery post, and it is still loose, then the post is worn out and you need a new battery, but again, those terminals are junk and are frequently sized for the positive terminal, which is slightly larger than the negative terminal. The marine terminals come in a kit with both the red positive and black negative, and are sized appropriately.

If replacing the terminal with a good one doesn't solve the issue, then the next test is checking for voltage. Have someone else try to crank it while you check between the positive terminal on the starter and the negative battery post. You want to see at least 10V while cranking. If you see less than 10V, then you have a voltage drop somewhere, and have to start narrowing in on it to see where it is. If you have more than 10V, then check to make sure you have power at the small wire on the starter when cranking. If you have more than 10V on both those terminals, then you have a bad starter. If you have less than 10V when cranking, you have a voltage drop somewhere, and you have to check between each connection to see where it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, I'm an idiot.

I left the car in "R" instead of "P".

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LOL We all make mistakes . I was in the ballpark ;)
 
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