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Hey I just swapped a 60000mi motor from a 95 into my 95.
Ive got the block and heads all apart. Engine stand, the works.
What kinda components? Like companies should I go with? People I know are tellin me to use FoMoCo stuff but I would like some more opinions. This will be another new hobby for me and I can't wait. Ive got a nice new shed with a window unit a/c and 20a 120v power out there with an air compressor and a tool box full to the top so Im ready to start turnin pneumatic air tools :D (wrenches? its 2009 i got power tools!). Thanks to everyone on the board you have made me the tbird master I am today!

IF YOU HAVE NOT REBUILT AN ENGINE, 4.6 FORD SPECIFICALLY DONT REPLY PLEASE!! I ONLY WANT TO HEAR FROM THE BIG BOYS HERE. THANKS!
 

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IF YOU HAVE NOT REBUILT AN ENGINE, 4.6 FORD SPECIFICALLY DONT REPLY PLEASE!! I ONLY WANT TO HEAR FROM THE BIG BOYS HERE. THANKS!
That attitude won't get you anything.

With that said, you better not be using those power tools to put it back together. I hope you know you'll need a torque wrench. Pretty much every bolt has a torque specification. Some are more important than others, but with any bolt, the torque spec is important regardless of its purpose.
 

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That attitude won't get you anything.
That attitude is supposed to filter out people like you that are spamming up threads with info he isn't looking for. Take a hint... for some reason anytime someone tries to note they don't want this kinda crap it's like bait to all the idiots who do it. Scram teenie.

-Joel
 

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That attitude is supposed to filter out people like you that are spamming up threads with info he isn't looking for. Take a hint... for some reason anytime someone tries to note they don't want this kinda crap it's like bait to all the idiots who do it. Scram teenie.

-Joel
Why is there soo much hate around these forums?

IMHO, "Nitemare" commented to him about bolt torque specification, and warning him against the wrong-doing's of using power tools to put an engine back together.

I don't know if he has rebuilt engines or not, but it seems like he knows what he is talking about. Since "ry2lazy4u" said it was his first engine rebuilding project, I don't find that to be in any wrong doing..... :confused: It's the little tips and hints that help the most sometimes..

Yes, I have rebuilt a 4.6. Two of them actually, but I just built them back to factory specifications, they weren't my engines so I did nothing fancy to them at all. So sorry "ry2lazy4u" for I can't recommend any aftermarket parts for engine assembly, but I know many other people here will. :D

~Peace:thumbsup:
 

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1. ditch the 95 heads
2a. get PI heads along with all the necessary install accessories.
2b. In another thread you made, you said you have no job so if money is tight, dont do any of this as it will be pricey.
2c. Also, if money is tight, it's basically pointless to spend money to mod a 95 motor (sorry if i stepped on toes) because the gains won't be there.
3. For ease, summit sells engine rebuild kits (as well as advance auto) that should contain all the rings and bolts, yaddy yaddy.
4. What exactly do you mean by ford components?
5. It all stems on if you want to go PI or not. PI heads can be had for $200 a set if you really look. Intake manifold for $100. I can not vouch for the other accessories, but I'm sure you can find them on here. Ford components from a dealer are going to be $$$ so you might as well just get them at a chain auto store.
6. And last. you have the heads apart, do you have the tools to compress the valve springs, etc?
 

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if you have to ask how to do it and what components to use, YOU'RE NOT READY...plain and simple

NO ONE IS GOING TO HOLD YOUR HAND HERE

thats putting it nicely......so set your goals, and go from there...maybe in a few years you might be ready
 

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That attitude is supposed to filter out people like you that are spamming up threads with info he isn't looking for. Take a hint... for some reason anytime someone tries to note they don't want this kinda crap it's like bait to all the idiots who do it. Scram teenie.

-Joel
Teenie? Just because you think I'm no one important doesn't mean you can talk to me like I'm no one important. I know what the hell I'm talking about when it comes to putting an engine together. I should, having done three 3.8's, a 5.4, and a 4.6 in progress. I say in progress because I'm waiting on an order of timing parts and head bolts. He said it was his first time, and was enthusiastic about having power tools, so I wanted to make sure he didn't screw up and, say, run his head bolts down with an impact to make sure they're extra tight to keep the gasket from leaking. That would be a big fail.
You wanna talk sh!t, leave it out of posts; you're spamming up his thread without even posting info.

With that said... I've used nothing but Fel-pro gaskets, and never had a problem with them. I've also heard good things from multiple mechanics, some young, some old, to use Fel-pro gaskets. Also be sure to get new head bolts, no matter what. They are torque-to-yield (they basically stretch) and some may look fine but none should be reused.
And take your time! You don't want to get excited, or get in a rush, and miss anything. Check, double check, triple check. Inside, every part is important, and one little thing could cause a big problem.
 

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Good day all!!

I think he put that blurb in here to see what kind of stuff he could stir up... It worked... At any rate, it's funny!!

OK, the good stuff... Like many have said on these forums before, if you want to do a project build, figure out how much it will cost, then double it... If that figure is too high, save up BEFORE you start!

This is what I would do, which won't agree with everyone, so use what you want and discard the rest...

I would find a crappy 94/95 Mark 8 or destroyed Cobra to scavange the block... Now the Mark 8 in those years have the better aluminium block, but no forged internals... If you find some forged internals (Cobra crank - aftermarket 'H' beam rods and pistons), use the Mark block... These blocks were made in Italy and can handle more power... I was going to build my T-bird motor using the Mark block I currently have on the engine stand, using stock ported heads and a decent intake... The county I live it made me go a different route... Anyway, using the base Mark block and internals, and stock SOHC heads would yield nearly 10.0:1 compression... You would need a chip to make this work, but that isn't a bad thing, regardless...

OK, gaskets... Fel-pro is usually the one I use...

Like Nitemare said, use new head bolts... My two cents on that is, if you are going to build something with better than stock componets, get ARP head 'Studs'... These come with threaded rods, nuts and washers... I like these better than bolts because they have less moving parts when torquing down the heads, which gives you better tolerances when torquing... HOWEVER, when torquing, you have to get real torque figures, and use them, because the stock method won't give you high enough numbers... Some may say it is minimal, but I am pretty sure those that use these ARP studs, and have head gaskets that fail is because the threads on the top, where the washer and nut go are tighter than the block side... Thus, you need more turns to equal the same torque... They didn't get proper torque with the 'book' method...

I'd go with the cobra oil pump and pick-up tube... You may have to mod your oil pan, you may not...

Get new timing chains, guides, and adjusters/tensioners!

Get aftermarket valve springs and the best stock cams (or go aftermarket here too)...

Have the PI heads ported, along with the intake (if its not plastic)...

I'd also use 24LB (mark 8 - gray) injectors, or 30LB (SC T-bird - red) injectors... Again, you will need a custom tune with either of these... You will also need to use a better fuel pump...

80mm MAF, and a decent aftermarket plenum (autofab)...

Kooks have decent exhaust componets to help this beast breath...

I know you have your stock block ready; on the stand... If you don't go with the Mark 8 block, all the above can be done to your stock iron block, with no worries... I would go with the Mark block cause it is nearly half the weight, and the T-bird is already heavy... It will also distribute the weight closer to 50/50...

You also didn't mention the trans... I would personally go with a manual T-45 or T-56, but that is a different thread altoghether!!! For the auto, I would use Jerry's wisdom on the 4R70W, and do it right... It is pointless to build the motor, but have a trans that can't handle half the power it's putting out... Search out "J-mod"!!! I built my last 4R70W to Jerry's specs (450HP) and it was the absolute best auto I have ever used, bar none!! The shifts were so fast, I could smoke the tires thru first, AND second... The tires didn't even have a chance to grip when shifting... It shifts that fast...

One of the most important items you will need on this build, only cost about 80 bucks... Get a Ford shop manual!!

Good luck and I hope this helps!

Cheers!!
 

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so lets see this engine that you have all torn apart...what have you done to it so far??

and what is your budget at this very moment?

....oh wait, nevermind, i just saw a post from you in your other thread:

lets all remember, I am unemployed so I dont have any money to spend. this mod is for broke people. It can be elaborated upon. And useful info would help, like "that will start a fire or improper wiring" but saying I couldnt live like that is just cluttering up the board with useless text."......



Well it sounds like a stock car now not a Cessna (747's are jet drive buddy!)
And compared to the fan not running when it needs to and overheating, I'll deal with the slight noise which I cant hear over straight pipes and 2 twelves.

You are denied from the free tech line :) then sir mr coolhand (j/k)



To all, yes after futher research I went and bought a 180 degree tstat from Bennitt for $8.99 and its running right below the N on NORM!!!! Thank you mr toombs like I said before. You too Rayo you have some good advice.

160 deg tstat is bad b/c the rear seal needs that backpressure to keep it cool! tip from a 28 yr master tech @ ford

yea, you're going to get a whole lot done in your situation....lets all just move along shall we? LOL
 

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Hey I just swapped a 60000mi motor from a 95 into my 95.
Ive got the block and heads all apart. Engine stand, the works.
What kinda components? Like companies should I go with? People I know are tellin me to use FoMoCo stuff but I would like some more opinions. This will be another new hobby for me and I can't wait. Ive got a nice new shed with a window unit a/c and 20a 120v power out there with an air compressor and a tool box full to the top so Im ready to start turnin pneumatic air tools :D (wrenches? its 2009 i got power tools!). Thanks to everyone on the board you have made me the tbird master I am today!

IF YOU HAVE NOT REBUILT AN ENGINE, 4.6 FORD SPECIFICALLY DONT REPLY PLEASE!! I ONLY WANT TO HEAR FROM THE BIG BOYS HERE. THANKS!
Since I have never built a 4.6 engine I have nothing to add here apparently. But since I do have an engine that runs fairly well if I may suggest that before you make a list parts you make a list of results you want to see.

The parts you use and the money you spend will differ in direct proportion to what you want the engine to do when you are finished with it. And that's my two cents worth.

Ira
 

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I'm building a 94/95 mod motor right now, first step throw the heads and intake manifold in the garbage. Always use proper torquing and detorquing on things like the heads and crank. Realize your goals and budget accordingly. Do your homework. Find out what you want but more importantly what you need in order to achieve your power goals, budget, and reliability.

You don't really mention what you looking to do. All you said is your rebuilding a 94/95 and its your first motor. You mention nothing about your power goals or budget, and trust me if you don't have a couple grand laying around than you shouldn't even bother building that motor. You honestly would be better off buying a low milage explorer motor, because all those gaskets and hardware alone add up really quick, let alone goodies and things like internals, heads, intake, cams, springs, retainers, valves, machine work, etc...

Make a list of EVERYTHING you could think of that you'll need. Every gasket, every nut, every bolt, and than get qoutes from a machine shop to have things like the block hot tanked, decked, bored, crank turned, plan for the worst damage, plan for everything to be out of spec even if it isn't and than add at least 25% to your budget to take up odds and ends that you forgot about while making the list. Than consider if you want to build it or if you'd be better off getting a low milage explorer motor or mark motor.
 

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if you just want a running motor why not find a 96-98 npi motor. You can find them on craigslist from wrecked cars or at the wrecking yard and maybe get even a 30 or 90 gauruntee tested motor. It will cost you way less than ripping apart a 4.6l and spending a load of cash on the motor. The 96-98 motors also have the F5 heads which have redesigned ports/and take care of the valve guide/seat issues that the 95 and earlier F4 headed 4.6Ls have. It will be quick and painless but if you want to tear your hair out pulling apart a motor just take your tiem and make sure its done right.
 

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Cheaper to replace than rebuild.

I wouldnt bother re-building unless you were planning on spending some $$ on good internals and machine work.
 

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96+ NPI heads
PI cams
4V pistons
new curved timing guides
Ford gaskets

I have built a few of this combo now and am building another for my pops car. Its dirt cheap and runs really good. Last one I did I charged $1000 for everything and that included some head porting and bronze guides. Lauderdale isn't that far from me either (I grew up there)
 

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My build:

new windsor block
new chains, guids ect.
cobra oil pump
Clevite bearing kit
ARP head and main studs
Forged pistons
stock crank
stock pi heads/cams/intake
stock head gaskets (best IMO)
and all of your common external bolt-ons and tuned

Late 97' mustang GT tranny with F7 case
mustang flex plate
stock mustang GT TC (smaller than a T-bird TC)
 
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