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Discussion Starter #1
The other day I started my car to warm up before I headed off to work and after running what seemed to be perfectly fine for about 3-5 mins it just dies out. I go back out to start it again obviously and it now it just cranks. It starts for a sec when I spray starter fluid up in it. Thought it was my fuel pump so I changed my fuel pump today put the tank back up n everything and it was doing the same thing cranks no start. I was reading about the CCRM and how it controls the fan as well as the fuel. I noticed my fan turns on as soon as I turn the ignition at all, engine not running and cold so I was wondering could it maybe be my CCRM that is the problem?? I just wanna drive muh bird its been a week my moms SUV is...well...ass.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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Have you checked fuel pressure? Do you hear the pump run to prime the system for a couple seconds when you turn the key from off to on?
 

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Have you checked fuel pressure? Do you hear the pump run to prime the system for a couple seconds when you turn the key from off to on?
Just to clarify, that’s from key off to on in the accessory position, don’t actually start the engine. Listen for the fuel pump to kick on and run when you do this.
 

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Just to clarify, that’s from key off to on in the accessory position, don’t actually start the engine. Listen for the fuel pump to kick on and run when you do this.
I dont think it primes, my dad and friend both said they cannot hear it. My friend also checked the fuel pressure and there was basically none. He took the inertia switch off and jumped the connection just to check if possibly that was broken, obviously wasnt the problem. So now im here askin yall for help. Im going to really test my luck and go to a junkyard today to hopefully find a CCRM I can try to use, I have no clue what else could be the problem so why not go look for one of these right.
 

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Check for power with a multimeter / test light at the inertia switch and work your way back to the CCRM before you start replacing components.
 

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Check for power with a multimeter / test light at the inertia switch and work your way back to the CCRM before you start replacing components.
what do I look for on the way back up to the CCRM? Literally just check EVERYTHING? I dont know anything dude theres lots to check from the back left of my trunk all the way up to the front right of my hood. I literally dont know anything telling me to just check stuff don’t really help brother.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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what do I look for on the way back up to the CCRM? Literally just check EVERYTHING? I dont know anything dude theres lots to check from the back left of my trunk all the way up to the front right of my hood. I literally dont know anything telling me to just check stuff don’t really help brother.
You test everything along the fuel pump circuit, narrowing down what is the specific culprit of your issue. If you can’t do that I don’t know how you expect to be helped, throwing parts at it isn’t how to diagnosis works.
 

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I literally dont know anything telling me to just check stuff don’t really help brother.
We can do this two ways ..

Check for power at the inertia switch using a test light or multimeter.

Buy a CCRM and maybe that might work.

Its your money, youre already down one fuel pump and that didnt fix anything. Its always funny when it turns out to be a bad 10 cent fuse that ends up costing $500. 😂
 

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What year is the car?

You are on to something with the fan running with key on. Also listen for the fuel pump. If both fan and fuel pump run continuously with the key on, it's a bad PCM (computer).

Normally, the fan should not run with the key on, and the fuel pump should only run for 2 seconds. If you truly can't hear the fuel pump, and have never heard it, maybe something didn't work out with the install. But you still have a bad PCM with the fan running. You have to get down by the pump to hear it over the sound of the fan.

Sorry you replaced the pump. Always ask on here first.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What year is the car?

You are on to something with the fan running with key on. Also listen for the fuel pump. If both fan and fuel pump run continuously with the key on, it's a bad PCM (computer).

Normally, the fan should not run with the key on, and the fuel pump should only run for 2 seconds. If you truly can't hear the fuel pump, and have never heard it, maybe something didn't work out with the install. But you still have a bad PCM with the fan running. You have to get down by the pump to hear it over the sound of the fan.

Sorry you replaced the pump. Always ask on here first.

Al
The old pump had something rattling in it anyway, obviously wasnt the problem but whatever it was ok to learn how to put one in idrc I did it haha. But the cars a 97 and I cant hear the fuel pump but also never heard it before the car gave out so kinda hard to tell if i installed it wrong since it didn’t work before i switched them. It was doing the same thing cranks but just doesnt start with the old pump as with this new one. So I am so confused. Im going to try my best to look at the entire fuel circuit like the other are telling me to do. If the year of the car changes anything please let me know. But yea recap : Low/no fuel pressure,fan comes on instantly, cant hear the fuel pump and i have not tested anything else myself i have been working and need to teach myself how to so thats all i can provide.
 

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1997 Thunderbird 4.6, 1998 Mark VIII LSC
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I'd lean towards CCRM or maybe even PCM if that doesn't pan out. Of course further pinpoint tests may reveal something other than that. :)
 

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Tested fuel pump relay input: 12v, ccrm has power. Jumped 12v to relay output and pump started priming. Basically ccrm isn’t doing its job because the circuit leading up to it is good and the circuit between ccrm and fuel pump is good.
 

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You can try "tapping" the CCRM to try and free the stuck relay as a temporary/last resort.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ANY idea of that i should do now. Ive done everything in the last posts obviously, i got a new CCRM n put it in, I changed the crankshaft position sensor because I heard a bad one can cause a crank but no start condition. Still doesnt work. My ECU bad? Anything else I can try? Ive done none of this in the order i shouldve so I am open to try anything i want me car to work. :(
 

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Tested fuel pump relay input: 12v, ccrm has power. Jumped 12v to relay output and pump started priming. Basically ccrm isn’t doing its job because the circuit leading up to it is good and the circuit between ccrm and fuel pump is good.
You tested for power at the CCRM connector ? Which pins / which color wires did you check ??

Replacement CCRM didnt work ??

Sounds like a bad PCM. Before we go ahead and buy a new one . just a couple tests.

Im assuming you are checking the pink / black wire ( fuel pump output ) from the PCM. This is a ground activated circuit - the power is supplied To the relay inside the CCRM by the PCM relay .. So if you are testing this, you will hook one lead of your volt meter to battery 12v and the other to the pink / black. It should only indicate power for 2 seconds during Key On / priming.

Check that the PCM is turning on via the CCRM .. The underhood fuses that supply the CCRM to the PCM are fuse numbers 15 and 3, both 20 amps.

The Red / light green wire is from your ignition switch, this should have power when you turn your key to Start / run. Check this circuit at the CCRM.

The two Yellow wires supply power to the PCM, they are hot at all times.

Use the Black wire ( pin 15 at the CCRM ) and check that this is grounded properly. If this wire isnt grounded, your PCM and Fuel pump wont work.

If these are all in working order at the CCRM .. The negative lead for fuel pump output is going to determine if you have a bad PCM.
 
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