Yep. Heads are prolly warped. Mine got checked and decked.
Just remembered... if you had your heads checked and they were fine or milled, its possible you have a crack in the block. The heads wouldnt be cracked, because any reputable shop will pressure check em first before they mill em.
The heads were checked by a very good shop. Im sure they are OK.
I know the block was overheated pretty good before I got my hands on the car. When everything was apart it looked good. I wonder if I gambled to much trying to use it. Im going to do a compression check, replace the lower intake gaskets tomorrow or Sunday along with the T-stat.
Something that I found odd was that after a half hour the temp gauge still read hot when I turned the key forward, the coolant was as cold as the outside temp. (~20*) The block was cold too. Makes me wonder if it really overheated as bad as the gauge said. The reservoir tank didnt overflow and the rad was cool to the touch.
I know the Tstat is good, I checked it in boiling water before it went in. Ill replace it anyway.
I was talking to 93SC and he mentioned that the oil passages could have had a large amount of coolant in them and that caused my milky oil condition.
Im a little confused by this. Is there any other place it could leak besides the head gaskets and lower intake.
Anyways, after a headgasket change there could still be milky gunkiness in the oil passages in the block from when the coolant was in the oil when the HG's first blew. You can try putting a can of seafoam into the oil and see if that clears it up, or empty the oil and put in tranny fluid. The atf is a detergent and will clean nearly anything out of a block. Run it only up to operating temperature, do not drive it, then empty it and fill it with oil. You'll want to do another oil change within 200 miles of the new oil too, just to make sure all the atf is out of there.
OK. So compression checks out. Its about 150-157 all around. If I remember right that is about where it should be, on average.
I started it again to hopefully get a feel for what is wrong. It seems that the cooling system isnt pressurizing. Still getting an air bubble and "overheating". It has a new Tstat and radiator cap. I opened opened up the vent plug and the coolant looked slightly milky.....Im going to guess that the milkyness is leftover residue. It wasnt horrible....
I drained the oil after my second change. It looks good.
I pulled the lower intake and am replacing the lower gaskets tomorrow. What are the toque specs on them? I want to make sure Im right.
Any other suggestions?
** I really want to add the cam now but dont want to do all that work and find out Ive wasted even more time. Guess Ill wait till spring. I had the lower off in under 15 minutes.
. If you knew what the bill looked like you probably wouldnt bet on me being happy about that 4.6. Thats one of the reasons Im getting frustrated with this car. Its turning into much more of a project than I wanted and my money is tied up elsewhere.
It has one more chance. After that Ill thank it for playing and wish it on its way. Id hate to do it but thats life.
I tried to drain the coolant to change the radiator out. The previous owner must have used 3 bottles of stop leak. It was trickling out of the petcock and what did come out looked horrible...even after a coolant change.
Now the system pressurizes. But Im stuck with what I think is an air bubble. I changed the routing of the heater core lines....you guys think that has anything to do with this issue? I have tried the cooling system sticky procedure. That wont get it out.
next time you fill, raise the front of the car up and open the rad cap. fill from the vent plug, being that its the highest point on the cooling system. when you cant fill from there anymore, fill from the rad cap and work out the bubbles by squeezing the lower rad hose.
I had to return an ISP router to the cable company and the office is about 30 minutes away. As I am driving, the car starts acting like it is missing. I could really tell it was acting up when I had to go up hills.
I made it back, though the car was running really rough by the time I made it...
I noticed the sticky in the forum top but could not find the info provided there or via search. I spent the last 2 days tackling the valve covers before I start doing motor mounts and trans mount. Typical space problems and cursing provided on both sides for lack of clearance. Luckily...
DTC34: DRIVER SIDE AIR BAG CIRCUIT LOW RESISTANCE OR SHORTED
So, is it best to leave this alone and live with it or take it somewhere? From what I read, it would seem the air bag module is going bad.
I did not see where anyone mentioned in the threads what to actually do other than test the...
I own a 1993 Thunderbird LX 3.8L V6, It has been parked and non oped for a while due to a mystery vibration occurring.
My mech, Ken Loyd, after a long long brainstorm finally figured out the problem.
It was the oil pump and the intermediate oil pump shaft the one in between the distributor and...
My 1996 3.8l shakes when in idle in drive.
It doesn't shake when in park or driving just when I come to a stop and the RPMS are low.
What could this be ?
Car shakes so back when trying to park it sometimes dies
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