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First thing I thought of after watching that video clip of your "new horn"..

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/s7uiQdfppCA?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


Wait for it..Wait for it..

Now that's a horn!.. :D




Rayo..
 

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Discussion Starter #304
Moving right along to the bigger project...

So SC pedals are hard to come by and since I'm cheap but brilliantly resourceful? I figured I'd try improvising with one of the missing links of the upcoming 5 speed swap - Modding an auto brake pedal into a stick pedal.

Now the easy peazy solution, and the perfectly acceptable one at that, would be to simply trim the ends off and slip on a smaller pedal pad. In fact, that's not far off what Ford did from 89-92, albeit with a different metal pedal pad. But my Cougar is a 94 and Ford substantially changed the pedal layout for the 93-95 SCs(along with the cage, booster and firewall for the Teves IV ABS system) and me being as picky as I am wanted the newer rarer layout with the brake pedal tucked right along side the accelerator, as seen here...

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This pic of course is from the MN12performance archive, I used many pictures from it as a reference for my little retrofit, including the Mustang pedal template as well as a general reference for angles and such (I'll also be using those pedal covers when all is said and done).


First thing I did was find the centerline of the stock auto pedal using masking tape paralleling the pedal arm and marking the specific center with a sharpie.
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Next I laid the template to correspond with the centerline. I used the pictures of the back of the pedal in the archive to determine the center and angle of the pedal pad template in relation to the pedal arm, the second pic below you can see the pencil marks I drew. I also glued it down

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Now the fun part, I had to bend the pedal arm until the top of the template was parallel with the pivot. This proved to be harder than I thought and tried everything to bend this chunk of 3/8" steel from a BFH and heat to brute force, trial and error brought me to this...

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A vice a vice and a big ass wrench with me pogoing on the end(too bad I couldn't get a pic of that lol).

*Note if anyone tries to attempt this make sure to position the arm in the vice so the cruise switch bracket portion won't get bent, otherwise the geometry of everything will be thrown off.


Now that the arm is bent to my satisfaction I let the carnage begin.

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Since the auto pedal has a wide diamond shaped stamping vs the manual pedal's round one I had to do some grinding for the pad to fit.

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And all done:)

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Took about an hour total. Tools used: Vice, another vice, BFW(big ****ing wrench), bench grinder, a coarse file and some black paint since it got pretty dinged up in the process.
 

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Way to prove the title of the thread!

Nice use of the double-vise setup by the way! I've come up with some creative ways to get things done over the years, but I don't think I ever would have thought of clamping a vise onto something that was clamped in a vise. Brilliant!
 

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Oh matt, sometimes you just over complicate things wayyy too much lol. Oh and do tell me that those clutch pedal paper cutouts were NO WHERE EVEN CLOSE to allowing the pedal pads to fit. lol. Maybe for your mustang ones but with the bullitt pedals it was a B****
 

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Discussion Starter #307 (Edited)
You love the things I over complicate and you know it :tongue: Yeah the templates were too tall so I had to do some additional trimming on the grinder to get these pads to fit(hence the lack of progress pics during that part), I'm sure I'll have to do it some more with the Bullitts when they show up too. I just needed something to go off of for the bending and the templates served that purpose well.
 

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You love the things I over complicate and you know it :tongue: Yeah the templates were too tall so I had to do some additional trimming on the grinder to get these pads to fit(hence the lack of progress pics during that part), I'm sure I'll have to do it some more with the Bullitts when they show up too. I just needed something to go off of for the bending and the templates and they served that purpose well.
Yeah, the mustang ones (oem) are a little more forgiving, those bullitt ones...just use a scribe and go along the inside of the rubber to coerce them over the metal, they will tear a slight bit in a few places but will be fine, it's unavoidable really, otherwise if you trim to much they will move around on the pedal pad sloppily. You should draft up some new pedal outlines that work lol. Mike and I dealt with this four separate times, it SUCKS lol.
 

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I'll probably use segments of paper and push them into each corner of the Bullitt pad, taping them together one by one. Done that on a few unrelated projects and it works pretty well.
Pics or it isn't going to happen. ;)
 

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Matt, I did something similar recently. I actually have the pedal from the SC that you've used as inspiration. The problem I came upon was that the dowel for the master was on the wrong side for my car. I tried to just put it on the opposite side and it wouldn't cooperate. So I scratched using the SC pedal and just cut the stock one. Yours looks to have the dowel on the left side, where mine was on the right. My car is a 94 like yours, and is different. Any idea why that is? I'd much rather use the correct factory pedal over my cut one.

 

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This pedal came from a 1993 if I recall correctly. I also tried putting 20 tons on the dowel to push it out. That's a no-go as well. It's my stock pedal that is opposite of yours. Is it an ABS versus non-ABS thing? If they're both 94, that's all I can think of. (Note: My pic has my modified stock pedal on the left, and the SC pedal on the right.)
 

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Discussion Starter #315
OH! I see what you're saying. Man, I have no idea, my car does have ABS and the dowel was always on the left, but the 96 I got this pedal out of had no ABS and the dowel is on the left too so I'm not sure why there's a difference. Must be with the master or booster and just for 94 or 95 maybe:confused:

Strangely I do recall looking up part numbers for the BOO switch at one point and recalled there being different ones for standard and ABS, and I never could figure out why that would be, but this could explain it.
 

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That's curious. I have the cage from the 93, and my 94 has some notable differences too. I won't go into detail here though. I may look at having the dowel added to the right side on the SC pedal and use it. Another thing to note, if you don't shave the back side the rubber cover will dimple as seen in my pic.
 

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The 94 part is the top, 93 on the bottom:

Notice the hinge bolt location is located farther up on the 93 cage. Also there is a hole with a metal bushing on the 93. This is where the return spring clips in (no spring on my 94).


Notice the steel bolt hole stand-offs/dowel on the 94. The 93 has a plastic piece that sandwiches between the cage and firewall with the stand-offs (not shown). Also, the right hand lower hole wasn't there on the 93 (I drilled it), and the right hand upper is missing on the 94.


In my pic in the previous post, you see the return spring on the 94 pedal. I tried to make it work on the 94 cage, and ended up breaking it trying to bend it to fit. I don't know the reason for it, as the master has enough pressure to return the pedal itself.

Before:


After:
 

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Discussion Starter #319 (Edited)
Just when I thought I knew all the weird things about these cars...

The cage is interesting, especially the lower pivot(mine for sure is high like the 93 cage), I think you're right, it's probably for non ABS cars and because non-ABS cars from 89-95 only came with rear drums. Since drums take a bit less pedal effort than discs, Ford may have seen fit to install a pivot with less leverage to compensate. Then in 96 when discs became a separate option(and standard in 97) they simply used the same setup in all cars.

The stand offs and dowel were on my stock pedal bracket as well as the 97 one I have in the car now, so the flat one with the plastic insert must have been a 93 only deal. Mine also has the return spring coiled around the pivot but no bushing where the end of the spring clips, it's just a hole like yours.
 

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Strangely I do recall looking up part numbers for the BOO switch at one point and recalled there being different ones for standard and ABS, and I never could figure out why that would be, but this could explain it.
For those of us cursed with the Teves Mk II, it was spring pressure. Oh, and the contacts came out opposite sides due to the different wiring harnesses.

Not critical in either case.

RwP
 
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