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That is an awesome piece of Artistry. :bowdown:

It looks brand new; although, like you said before, the color match from the factory sucked, lol, and Yours looks perfect. :thumbsup:

I like the shifter knob too. :znanner:

Cars that are worked over this much have a personality; It needs a name!
 

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Cars that are worked over this much have a personality; It needs a name!
It has one; but I'm not sure the profanity filters will pass it without melting down. >:)>:)

RwP
 

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That looks sooo ******* good!
 
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It has one; but I'm not sure the profanity filters will pass it without melting down. >:)>:)

RwP
If I called my cars what I say when I slip with a wrench, they'd all have the same unprintable name, lol. (EDIT: GDMFPOS!! +ting-ting-ting of the wrench flying, lol.)

You can't really name your own stuff; it has to be annointed by an uninterested party. :)
 
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If I called my cars what I say when I slip with a wrench, they'd all have the same unprintable name, lol.
"You sorry sap sucking ... "

Ray Stevens, "Used Cars" as it trails off at the end.

RwP
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Discussion Starter #766
I forgot something. I bought an aftermarket stereo purely because I wanted Bluetooth/USB for my music and podcasts. It’s quite rare for me to venture off to AM/FM land, therefore I don’t want the antenna up 100% of the time, and while everything was apart I decided to make this very simple setup.


Firm ride switch and pigtail in the stock location as an on/off switch, and two wires - which I scavenged as cable from an old mini USB charger - and rather than tapping into the stereo wiring and being all ugly, I took apart the antenna module, ground away the “radio on” trace from the circuit and ran the switched wires to the nearest convenient solder points to bridge it. Clean and tidy, and the firm ride switch finally has a purpose in my car other than to fill space.
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If I know you, pretty soon you'll develop a way to silk-screen new lettering onto the switch to say "Antenna" instead of "Firm Ride", and you'll probably do it for less than $47.88.
 

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We used to do fairly detailed Tshirts by silkscreen for our parties; it's a lot easier than you'd think.

You can print color separations from photoshop, and you make one screen for each color.

You can buy all the **** on amazon for less then $200 for ~100 shirts, so the expense is the shirts, as always. :)

However: Silkscreening a nonflat surface is a lot harder. And silkscreen doesn't wear well on finger touch surfaces.

I'd remove the original lettering, take them to a trophy shop, get them engraved with whatever, and fill the engraving. :)

To really make it interesting:

You can get glow in the dark pigments from these guys: (this is the sample pack)

Europium UltraGlow Sample Pack, small : United Nuclear , Scientific Equipment & Supplies

This pigment, mixed with clearcoat and spread evenly on a piece of glass, allows you to write on the glass with a UV laser. :)

Mixed into clearcoat it looks white, but under uv or stored (day)light it glows whatever color you use.

Putting a uv led under it would make it glow whatever color at night, as bright as you want. >:)
 
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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Discussion Starter #769
My thought was to emulate the convertible switch based on the same core used on SN95s, with ‘ANTENNA’ printed where ‘SET PARK BRAKE’ is printed, on the flat part of the base. On the switch, if anything, I’d just print simple arrows like the window switches. Not that I’ve thought about this :tongue:
 

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My great nephew mentioned 3d printing a stencil, and paint it on.

I wouldn't have thought of that, lol.
 

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What glue did you use? I’ve found just about everything to be useless except super 90, including super 77 from 3M. The key is letting it set on both surfaces for around 5 minutes too before contact, and in the past I didn’t heed those instructions and had failures

I recommend getting headliner suede when you redo them, mine had foam backer, which in addition to feeling nicer and being more forgiving, the glue seems to bite into it better than the single layer suede JoAnne fabrics stocks(at least at mine). Price is comparable too, I got it here https://m.ebay.com/itm/Suede-Headliner-Upholstery-Fabric-Foam-Backing-JET-BLACK-60-wide-Free-Shipping/312193414245?vxp=mtr&item=312193414245
I just noticed that you quoted me, never got a notification. Tccoa on mobile was not a fun experience lol, glad to be back on my lap top.

I used headliner spray adhesive, I cant remember the brand but I bought it at a Joan Fabrics when I got the material, which was headliner material. When I re do it Im going to go with a different brand because this is the same stuff that I have replaced twice on my rear deck and has, both times, bleached to tan like the piece I replaced. I have a Top 60 plaque sitting in the back window, tomorrow Ill move it and post a picture so you can see how bad it got.
 

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The dyes even under the plaque are starting to deteriorate at this point. I bought a black deck piece from MadMike for the SC but Ill actually put it in this car and get a cover for the SC.
I would cover that in Leather, (suitably treated) and add 6x9 speakers there.

The fronts, rear seat, and deck speakers, combined with a sub will give a most Excellent 7.1 system.

Our cars have great acoustics; if you've upgraded your system, you've noticed.

That 1000 pounds of carpet backing does "Two Things". (bender)

Sir Will mentioned a Top-of-the-A-Pillar Tweeter mount, but that's more of a "how-good-is-your-hearing" thing.

Any surface mount Tweeter ain't doin much for me these days, lol.
 

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Yah; when I redo the interior of Ruby Jean, she's getting surface mount tweeters in the A pillar so that it does some good for my hearing.

And yes, she DOES sound great with the sub working. Doesn't sound bad currently while it's disconnected!

RwP
 

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I forgot something. I bought an aftermarket stereo purely because I wanted Bluetooth/USB for my music and podcasts. It’s quite rare for me to venture off to AM/FM land, therefore I don’t want the antenna up 100% of the time, and while everything was apart I decided to make this very simple setup.


Firm ride switch and pigtail in the stock location as an on/off switch, and two wires - which I scavenged as cable from an old mini USB charger - and rather than tapping into the stereo wiring and being all ugly, I took apart the antenna module, ground away the “radio on” trace from the circuit and ran the switched wires to the nearest convenient solder points to bridge it. Clean and tidy, and the firm ride switch finally has a purpose in my car other than to fill space.
Damn, I missed Why you were doing this; I hate to mention something in the middle of a cool mod, but it's a public service announcement:

I think you mentioned having an Alpine tape deck.

My Alpine deck has both a Power Antenna (Blue) lead, and a Amp Remote (Blue/White) line, and won't raise the antenna until you hit the radio...

Check your manual; I bet your deck does this too.

I hope you haven't cut a hole yet.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Discussion Starter #777
Damn, I missed Why you were doing this; I hate to mention something in the middle of a cool mod, but it's a public service announcement:

I think you mentioned having an Alpine tape deck.

My Alpine deck has both a Power Antenna (Blue) lead, and a Amp Remote (Blue/White) line, and won't raise the antenna until you hit the radio...

Check your manual; I bet your deck does this too.

I hope you haven't cut a hole yet.
It’s done, works great. My Alpine is 12 volts out both leads whenever the unit is on (I have a sub on the amp remote), so the antenna was up whether it’s set to radio, USB, Bluetooth, Pandora, etc.
 

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1994 Cougar XR7 DOHC/5-Speed
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Discussion Starter #778 (Edited)
So I tackled my biggest MN12 fear, conquered Everest if you will. I changed the rusted out IRS bushing hardware to rust free/NOS stabilizer brackets, top cups and bolts, and I did it without cutting holes in the frame rails too :eek:


Now before anyone gets too excited, this is going to be wordy and rambling, and also, no I didn’t upgrade to delrin or solid aluminum or anything wallet emptying like that. The thing with the design and operation of these bushings is stabilizer brackets on the bottom preload the bushings(against spring compression), and the top cups act as stops for the cradle. In other words the cradle is only supposed to move DOWN from the static position resting on the top cups, and if the stabilizer brackets on any corner go, then the IRS will drop, since there’s no longer anything to preload the bushing, what’s even worse is the top cups rotting out means the cradle can now move UP from static position, which it does quite a lot of under hard acceleration.

For those curious, I indeed broke bolts, but not all four as I expected, in fact just two, and both on the passenger side, oddly. It is as bad as you’d picture to get the broken bolts out, not only from the body, but the sleeves - as past discussions on the forum have concluded, those are the big problem - the bolt, seizes to the sleeve and the sleeve seizes to the top cup, and there are probably numerous ways to deal with it. I personally found that prying the cradle down, pulling the sleeve out from the rubber, and using a pipe wrench on the sleeve was relatively effective for a few turns, in fact I lucked out on the rear one where it actually freed the sleeve from the bolt, but that didn’t happen on the front. What I did next may be controversial/debatable...

SO-CAL's Easy Wheel Hop Delete Mod

Easy... if you live in SO-CAL ?

Kind of an old school hack back before anyone made bushings from harder materials, but it’s been in my bookmarks since aught six, since I’m a cheapskate. Basically the idea is to preload the BOTTOM rubber by about 1/4” to stiffen up the bushings, which should in theory reduce wheel hop, one solution is spacers under the top cup, other is lopping out as much from the sleeve, which I did... because I had to. Once I got the sleeves/top cups spun off a few threads before seizing again, I lopped through the sleeve just below the lip with my cutoff wheel, cutting through the bolt in the process, and leaving a short stub still attached to the captured nut. To get the bolt stub out of the body I threaded a nut on to the corroded and mangled threads until it stopped and used my little butane torch to heat up the captured nut in the frame rail (which is actually nicely exposed since it’s in an alignment slot) and that was just enough to successfully spin both broken bolts from the body without needing to make the dreaded access holes. Getting the bolt out of the sleeve was its own adventure(I wasn’t so lucky with the front), I ended up cutting a slot in the portion the bolt was seized to and hammering it out. I made sure to test the clamping load to make sure the “split” sleeve won’t deform under torque and it seems fine, I went to 100 ft lbs (spec is 76). Putting it all back together is self explanatory, I pressed the sleeves back into the bushings, ran taps through all the captured nuts and stabilizer bracket bolt holes, painted the frame rails with chassis black paint, and very liberally applied antisieze to everything


Oh yeah, since grog brought up PSAs, you won’t necessarily be able to tell if your top cups are good just by looking at them, they are cast steel with a thick layer of rubber bonded around their surface and they rot from the inside with no indication of decay until a chunk of its corroded insides cracks off and shears through the rubber. I thought only the fronts were bad on mine, the passenger side being the worst of the two, but once I got the rears off I realized the rubber was delaminating from those too. So for northern members, you can upgrade everything on the IRS much as you want as I did, but if you ignore these it’s almost all for nothing.
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Nice Job, Matt!

That's all good to know info, I need to do this to Lazarus.

What size are those bolts, and are they still available, or did you just buy NOS? (looks great, btw!)
 
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