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Discussion Starter #1
First off I havn't even checked the code to see if it is actually a tracloc rear.

I don't think I need to. I have never been able to get the car to spin one tire. Even w/ one wet and one dry.

Belive it or not, but my complaint is that the rear is actually too tight. When I turn a corner and give it anything but gentle throtle the inside tire always howls. It's bad enough on dry pavment, and a real PITA when it's raining. The car has 75K on it. As far as i can tell it was a grama mobile until I got it. I would think that it would be nice and broke in by now.

I was wondering if this behavior is normal or if need to start saving my pennies for a new rear...

Imagine that, me complaining about a tight arse :xpdevil:

:D
 

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Yeah sounds like you have an open diff.

I have new FRPP 3.73 Aluminum Pumpkins for sale right now $540 plus shipping. Let me know if I can help.

JH
 

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JustinH said:
new FRPP 3.73 Aluminum Pumpkins for sale right now $540 plus shipping.
JH
Dam Justin, where were you when I needed you... I paid Max like $100 more, and thought that was a pretty good deal... the local parts dummies, couldn't even figure out how to order the whole unit.. they wanted to sell to me in parts: the case, the gears, etc... all separately priced...

needless to say I don't buy many parts locally...


That's a great deal.. there is a post around here somewhere and a website that has the codes for the diff's... the code showing for my '96 tracloc is "E"
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I dunno It could be an open diff, but from the way it drives I highly dobut it

I was wondering if what i'm experiencing is normal

:D
 

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I don't know if what you're experiencing is normal or not.. not sure I understand what it is you're experiencing... for me it may be I gotta feel it to know...

anyhow if you're curious whether you have a open or close diff, check this out

http://www.tccoa.com/articles/gears/gears.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It's a code "E" wich would put it at a 3.27 tracloc if i'm reading the chart right...

I've had several other cars w/ limited slip. To me it seems as if the rear end in my bird is excessively tight. I was wondering if it was normal for this car or if I might have a problem.

Don't get me wrong, traction is my freind, but when I hear tires sqwaling under a fairly normal turn. It's not that I nail it, but if the car isn't pretty much idling thru a tight turn, like in a parking lot or street corner it will bark the inside tire. On gravel or grass there is pretty much no give in the rear at all.

I guess it will get worn out/broken in eventually

:D
 

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Tight is better than loose! If you have a tight one, your LUCKY!!!! Drive it hard for awhile. It'll loosen up quick enough. Another problem might be that the diff. lube hasn't comletely soaked into all the clutch disks. That would cause it to be tighter than normal.

The Trac-Loc that Ford put in the SC's was a Medium Duty. Probably the same for the 4.6 guys. Anyway, it's not a very robust piece of equip. I shredded my OEM Trac-Loc at 30K (no clutch disks left at all!!!). The 2nd. OEM MD Trac-Loc was finished at 60K.

Now I have a regular Auburn Cone. Even that is a little to loose to suit me. The Auburn Pro would have been a better choice. More bias pressure on the cones = more tq. required to differentiate.

68COUGAR
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I try to be fairly nice to it, I can't afford to tear it up.

It would be nice if it was a lil looser. I'm shure it will loosen up w/ time, but for the time being it seems as if it's getting tighter

I got a bs warning ticket the other day for "excessive display of acceleration" :D

I turned the corner and the inside tire complained, I looked in the mirror and saw blue lights...

:D
 

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Kaptn' Obvious said:
I got a bs warning ticket the other day for "excessive display of acceleration"
Bummer..... Try showin' the judge this thread... maybe he'll let you off (LOL)
 

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96 GoldBird said:


Dam Justin, where were you when I needed you... I paid Max like $100 more, and thought that was a pretty good deal... the local parts dummies, couldn't even figure out how to order the whole unit.. they wanted to sell to me in parts: the case, the gears, etc... all separately priced...

needless to say I don't buy many parts locally...


That's a great deal.. there is a post around here somewhere and a website that has the codes for the diff's... the code showing for my '96 tracloc is "E"

you think thats good? how bout this one.... Trac Lok with 3.73s....75$ Fluids...15$ Bushings....40$ labor still to come....200$ extra set of 3.55s in case mileage with 3.73s sucks...80$ now thats a deal. of course, im gonna go 3.55s first...seeing as how i put 700 miles on the car from tuesday to friday, i think the 3.55s might stay, time will tell.

of course, those parts monkeys might not be a ford racing dealer, in which case, they wouldnt have the foggiest...


joseph
 

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The Great Obucina said:
im gonna go 3.55s first...joseph
Sounds like a great deal.. That's for the whole pumpkin, not just the gears????

Go for the 3.73's first.. the difference between them and the 3.55's isn't that much in terms of rpm and gas mileage..

or how's this, put the spare 3.55's in your present diff and and keep the 3.73 pumpkin to swap in for our little get togethers at Moroso...
 

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Personally I like tight rear ends :D , but seriously my 3.8's rear end is really tight, I can actually hear it tumble, even at low throttle the wheel will squeek in the corners, I think that's just the way they should be
 
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