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Discussion Starter #1
What You Gotta Do

Ze hood! She is closed:







Yea, I know... Thats a big phu- king hole!








But ze trunk, she is still open:


Now, what's that box for??


...and that's a Marine switch... what's that for??




And the cabin needs some work:




But we're getting closer all the time...

-mike
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm not sure if it's technically a RE -- post when two different members start two separate threads unbeknownst to one another...

maybe it just proves that great minds think alike..

:D :xpshame:

I guess I shoulda done a :search: , huh??


-mike
 

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had to cut a hole in the hood... thats what happens when you get involved with a frankencougie
 

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Hey, wait a sec I represent that remark!


I've bled enough on this build so I figured a rim-job was in order...:eek:


Cabin de-pressurizer.


Should be interesting to see what the IAT temps are as well as the temps of the Aftercooler coolant itself. Overkill as always but in a good way.

-Scott
 

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jamesD said:
had to cut a hole in the hood... thats what happens when you get involved with a frankencougie

only problem is...the hole is getting bigger each time....


looking good....i love it.
 

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Nice work, but to be honest the hole in the hood looks really bad. To me its just too big and crooked. The fact that the corners aren't rounded is also a cringe-point for me. Just my 2 cents. Is that hole permanent?
 

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Another frankencougie creation. Damn Scott, I still remember when you started modding your 95.. Good times. Good to know you still have the touch, considering that you are getting.....eeerrr... I mean.. Well you know:D Nice work dude..

Israel
 

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Dr. FrankenCougie said:
No, its just there so I can close the freaking thing. A custom cowl or scoop will be made for it.

-BB
Oh ok, I look forward to seeing the custom cowl/scoop then :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
slo1 said:
Is that hole permanent?
Nope, a little fertilizer and water it everyday...

and the hood'll grow back, good as new...

Sorry, I was watching "Blue Collar Comedy" last nite, and couldn't resist....

-mike
 

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"If you got a big ol' hole in your hood with the motor sticking out of it......"














You might be a redneck.

:D
 

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Wow, just wow. I pretty good with a wrench and all, but that is way beyond my level.

Just a stupid question, I've seen many of your posts and pics, and maybe I missed it. What are all the cells and switches and stuff in the trunk for? BTW, I know squat about supercharging, so that may explain it.
 

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The one cell (fuel cell) on the drivers side is the Aftercooler recovery tank. The after cooler (pictured) cools the air charge after the blower. More coolant volume makes for a better cooling strategy.



The Aftercooler coolant passes thru this heat exchanger before it goes back into the tank. there are two fans that help cool the coolant.

As far as the switches go... I'll leave that up to Mike to explain but I'll add some retarded diagrams to ponder over...







-BB
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The blue cell behind the aftercooler reservoir is a "cool can"... There's a coil inside the can that the aftercooler coolant will run through, and I'll pack ice inside the can around the coil to cool down the coolant... back in the day guys used to cut the tp off a beer can, and put a coil of fuel line in the can, then pack the beer can with ice just before a run to cool down the fuel (some probably still do)... same principle, only for coolant instead of fuel.

The thing that looks like another cell on the passenger side of the trunk is the battery box. NHRA requires either a box or a rear firewall to spec., to keep the battery from breaking loose and ending up in the cabin.

NHRA also requires a remote kill switch when the battery is moved. The remote kill switch that Scott set up is removeable.. it's just something I will have available for use when I'm at the track, so Scott set up two wiring configurations, and the three-way marine switch gives me the option of switching from one configuration to another. In "Street Mode", the remote kill switch is bypassed, so the ignition key is the only on-off switch, just like a normal street car. In "Track Mode", the remote switch has to be closed for the car to run.

... Oh yeah, and the third mode?? that would be "Off" and the car is not going anywhere until someone opens the trunk and figures it out. Of course there will be an "Off" tune in the flip chip as well... can't be too careful...

I was surprised to find out what all is involved in doing a proper battery relocation and kill switch. After Scott explained to me what all he had in mind, I called an old school guy in California who's been doing hot rod electrical systems for 30 years. He started with MOPAR and now sells kits and relays and stuff for GM, too. There is more too it than just moving the battery, hooking up an extra kill switch and running cable.. that is, to do it safely and do it right. It takes a few extra solenoids and fuses and things... Of course the two separate wiring configurations is optional. Keep in mind that that the fuel and fuel lines and pumps are back there with lots of fumes, especially in a crash situation... and maybe 100 amps, give or take, going out, and coming back to the battery.

Fumes + 100 A spark = :boom:

:angel2:

-mike
 

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I'd make a custom clear Lexan port, and put it in the hole...

That's waaaaay to cool to hide!!!

I mean, Holy Blanking Stuff!!

Some nitrous, and you could probably make orbit!

(Ever think of hiding leds in there, so it can be seen at night?)
 

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Why even bother with the hood?.......

Go full redneck and just leave the hood off....hahaha. But seriously--it would look awsome to have a full lexan(polyeurethane) hood like I've seen on a few imports. Has this car even been driven before?--I can't believe how clean the underbody is! :headbang:
 
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