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I was thinking we should all email him a cookie.
Alan
Hell go into browser cache and send ALL the cookies.

Xr: Doesnt photobucket have batch resize?
If they dont, there's a free image package called xnview, that will do it. Takes a little familiarization but works great and versatile too.

http://www.xnview.com/
 
So, this is all nice info to boot, but what about us early model guys with a 5.0? I could just put a cowl hood on and use a mark vii alt and bracket but what if I don't want to do that? Am I stuck just having my alt re-wired for more amps? Any info would be greatly appreciated, and please don't send me any cookies! lol
 
There's a nice tech article on the main web site about this, as a matter of fact.

Plus, once you've done what that needs, you CAN buy up to a 200A alternator ...

Disclaimer: I am currently running with the stocker 95A unit. Haven't done either (mod to fit the larger 3G, or an even larger 3G)

RwP
 
I never got around to it, the alternator I experimented with was TOAST lol FWIW The article I posted in the tech articles section is reposted from P71interceptor's original after the photos disappeared. I uploaded the picture cache to immortalize it here.
 
I would take this on for a project, if I didn't have 10 other projects to do, lol.

I made a cam holder last weekend, while it rained, so I can measure cams.

Solid teflon v-blocks for the bearings to ride on, and a laser cut degree wheel*; and a gauge holder.

My "dial gauge" has an rs232 port; I need to write some code, and make a cable. :)

Somewhere I have a code snippet that will run a parallel port as a motor indexer, using leds; I have laser diodes laying around now, lol. that should be easier.

I'll post it when I get it running. :)


*Two of these, cut just so and welded. :)

http://www.techni-tool.com/400GA030
 
I wish I had the one way clutch but I already found a easy good solution in the form of a good alt shop. Plus the unsure outcome of being the 2nd person to try get it working. I really would just like to see if the mitsu one way clutch can be used in the large case 3g 200 amp+ units most people on here buy. I dont think Ive seen more than a couple of alts like these in the yard. Likely toasted units as well. So from my stand point nothing but the most trashed wrecked ex taxi cvpi ends up in the boneyard. Im expecting an alt in need of a refurbish if I bought a mitsu right now. Kinda bugs me they are hard to come by here.
 
The clutch would have kept me from breaking my first manifold, lol.

:rolleyes:
 
Notches in replacement

Today at 150,460 miles, my original alternator died while I was miles from home. I'm not sure how long I've been running on battery power only. Thank God it happened right next to an auto shop, and I was able to coast into their driveway when the battery gave out. The shop was to busy to help, but they did give me a free charge, enough to get me to a nearby alternator shop. The shop had the time to pull and replace the alternator, grand total $119.00.

The mechanic was the one who cursed the fact the mounting bolts had to be completely removed because there were no notches below the bolt holes. Notches are a good idea, but if this new alternator last as long as the original, I don't need no stinking notches.
 
No

Is your warning light working?
As soon as the voltage drops low the battery light on the dash should come on. It should come on when you turn on the ignition switch and go off once the engine starts running.
No warning light, just the voltage gauge. Perhaps there is a warning light in the unit I removed in order to put in the package tray. I'll look at my owners manual to see what it says about the warning light. Thanks a million.

I just went out and checked the system. When I turned the key toward start, the warning light came on and went off after the car started. However, it did not come on when the battery was dying.
 
No warning light, just the voltage gauge. Perhaps there is a warning light in the unit I removed in order to put in the package tray. I'll look at my owners manual to see what it says about the warning light. Thanks a million.
Woah, you've got a volt meter gauge? My 97 doesn't have a gauge, only the light. So if you have a gauge, you won't have the light.

So you just didn't notice the gauge reading low? Okay, that happens sometimes.
 
Woah, you've got a volt meter gauge? My 97 doesn't have a gauge, only the light. So if you have a gauge, you won't have the light.

So you just didn't notice the gauge reading low? Okay, that happens sometimes.
What I noticed after the auto shop charged my battery and I began the 4 mile drive to the alternator shop, the needle gradually moved toward 0 volts.

I am so thankful this whole incident played out the way it did. In other scenarios, I would not have found myself anywhere near help if I had taken another way home. God has been good to me; the folks on this forum is absolute proof I've come to the right place - MN 12 heaven. :)
 
Actually, yes, you DO have both a light and a gauge on the 1995.

And if the bulb burns out, you don't get charge ...

(Which is one reason why I left a 194 there on my cluster, when everything else went LED.)

RwP
 
Actually, yes, you DO have both a light and a gauge on the 1995.

And if the bulb burns out, you don't get charge ...

(Which is one reason why I left a 194 there on my cluster, when everything else went LED.)

RwP
Thanks RalphP. The bulb is fine, but for some reason it did not come on and stay on as the battery was dying. This is a mystery, but all I can say is, if this replacement alternator lasts as long as the original one did, I'll be 90 years old when this one poops out. By then, maybe we'll all be strapped into driverless cars on a highway to hell. :)
 
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