I usually place the jack under the rear diff mount (V shaped piece at the back of the centersection). This allows you to place jackstands under both sides of the rear end at the same time. I usually place the jackstands under the rear lower control arms or at the rear mount of the lower control arms.

On the front, I place the jack under the front crossmember, once again lifting both sides at the same time. I'm not a big fan of lifting one corner at a time, especially when some of the other corners are resting on jackstands. I'd be worried about knocking the car off the jackstands.

-Rod

 

I usually place the jack under the rear diff mount (V shaped piece at the back of the centersection). This allows you to place jackstands under both sides of the rear end at the same time. I usually place the jackstands under the rear lower control arms or at the rear mount of the lower control arms.

On the front, I place the jack under the front crossmember, once again lifting both sides at the same time. I'm not a big fan of lifting one corner at a time, especially when some of the other corners are resting on jackstands. I'd be worried about knocking the car off the jackstands.

-Rod

Sweet. Great info Rod...you've been most helpful.

I'll get on that in a bit. I had some business to attend to (custom exhaust with high flow cats for my girlfriend's 2.2L Subaru)... I will use your method of jacking the car up. I'm hoping to have the car up and running by tomorrow afternoon....I miss my T-bird

 

Koby Bryant can jack up a rear end tehehehehe

EArl

 

Koby Bryant can jack up a rear end tehehehehe

EArl

Koby ?

 

Yes its normal. All it means is that your rear suspension has more travel than the front, and that your (sub)frame is still strong.

When jacking up my SHO in the rear, the front suspension comes a good 3" off the ground before the rear gets in the air.

 

it sounds fairly normal... just be careful and take it slow. watch the first jackstand as you're jacking up the other side.

On a differn't note, itsn't it a bad thing to jack the car up from the center in the rear?

If memory serves, the subframe around the pumpkin was designed to hold the pumpkin, but not to bear the load of the car?

 

Rear A arms are a good jacking point. One on either side and it also keeps the wheel up if you need them to be

 

Well, I have learned a different route for jackin' a bird from the rear....... First you need a piece of 2" x 4" lumber about6" long , which you place on the jack cradle......
You then position the jack outboard of the pumpkin, so it catches the U channel of the pivot arm(looks like a flat plate from the rear, but you want to lift on BOTH edges with the wood.... this will cause a little twist due slightly off- center lifting , but not too much for those of you without a re-inforced chassis..... anyhow jack away to your heart's content, and at the limit of the jacks lift set a jackstand at the opposite side on the circular IRS mount just foreward of the rear wheel(this side will be a bit lowerdue offset andsuspension compensation... set the other stand at the same height and carefully lower onto both stands ... the reason for the wood is to prevent slippage, between the metal partz.... this method seems to equalize strain on the suspension parts and doesnt damage the pumpkin mount, but cuts up the wood pretty good ..... LOL

 

I don't see how lifting the car from the subframe could possibly do any damage. I've been lifting MN12's this way for years, and have never had any problems.

-Rod

 

I'm not sure, but I thought the manual specifically said not to jack at that point. I don't have my manual here, so could someone check?

But if you think about the stress that that point was designed for, it's not engineered as a lift point. There's no vertical support and the whole weight of the rear of the car would be on that flat section of the cross member right where the differential mounts. If that area gets bent even a little, it could throw off the pinion angle on the drive shaft.

Can someone verify the “official” jacking points for an MN-12? Or confirm that I’m talking out my a$$

 

why not spend the 30 seconds it takes to put it on some ramps and call it good?

 

And how would you take the wheels off then if you wanted too.

 

I've tried the ramp thing on the rear wheels before, if you're doing it on a cement floor with metal jacks, you have to be rather careful (more than usual) with the throttle when coming off them

 

I've tried the ramp thing on the rear wheels before, if you're doing it on a cement floor with metal jacks, you have to be rather careful (more than usual) with the throttle when coming off them

:uppoint: :uppoint: :uppoint:

Put any holes in the wall?

Warning: watch for low flying ramps...

 

ramps+ smooth cement = bad
i hate driving up ramps so I jack the vehicle up and then stick ramps under it, that way i dont have them slipping (and it doesnt hit the body then)

 

:uppoint: :uppoint: :uppoint:

Put any holes in the wall?

Warning: watch for low flying ramps...

well no.... the work bench managed to stop it before it got anywhere near the wall

surprised the hell outta me though

 

Speaking of ramps... I found the coolest ramps I've ever seen at a garage sale for $15

They were tall like almost 2' @ rated @ 10,000 lb each. The ramps were realy long, so it didn't thrash your bumper trying to drive up on them. The best part about them was the ramp could be removed after you got the car up, so you had plenty of room to work under the car.

Unfortunately My roomie was nice enough to leave them in the alley while he was cleaning the garage during my last move. Say bye bye to ramps

 

bastard

 

Tell me about it....

 

I don't see how lifting the car from the subframe could possibly do any damage. I've been lifting MN12's this way for years, and have never had any problems.

-Rod

me too man. never had a problem.

my 93 has a trailer hitch, so I use it.......talk about ease of jacking

Mike

 

Well I think the "official" jack points for the car are the same jack points used for the emergency spare tire jack. I needed to find a better spot, cuz last time I jacked the car up from there I put jack stands right behind that area so now the bottom of the body is bent. It's bent upwards a little bit about an inch or so back from the notches in the body where you are supposed to put the emergency jack. Any way to fix this?

 

If its the flanged piece where the rocker panel and the "bottom" meet, Thats pretty easy to straighten with a set of vise grips and a good right arm..... if what you are talkin about is actually the"Bottom" , then why try to straighten as no one can see anyhow and hammering it out just increases metal fatigue.....LOL